
Smith's 

Chrysanthemum 

Manual 



Revised EdttioN 



\\\ F{ \\ SMITH ^ SON, \.lr-an, Mit 



PRICK 4()C 



Smith's 
Chrysanthemum Manual 



Revised Edition 



Many of. the Important Chapters Have Been Revised and 
Enlarged, Giving More Complete Details, with 
Additional Illustrations. The Work is Practi- 
cal, Not Only to Florists, Who Have 
Every Facility, but the Amateur. 



FULLY ILLUSTRATED 



BY 
ELMER D. SMITH 



Who Has Given His Undivided Attention for Twenty Years 

to the Improvement of the Chrysanthemum 

and Its Culture in Detail. 



19 06 



<^ 



^ 









LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

NOV 14 1906 

CLASS J{ XX6., No. 
COPY B./ 



Copyright, 1906, 

by 

ELMER D SMITH 




PRES. ROOSEVELT 



CONTENTS 



Chapter I — History - - ' - - Pag-e 1 

Chapter II— Stock "Plants - - - - 3 

Early Propagation ----- 3 

Cold Frames . . . . . 4 

Field Grown - - - - - - 4 

Imported Stock . - _ . . 4 

Novelties and Scarce Sorts - . . . 5 

Chapter III— Propagation . - - - 6 

Cutting Bench ------ 6 

Selection of Cuttings . . . . 6 

Making Cuttings ----- 6 

Air and Temperature . . - . 7 

Shading ------- 8 

Watering - - . - - - - 9 

Saucer System - - - - - - 9 

English Method - - - - - 9 

Divisions - - - - - - 9 

Potting .---.. 10 

Chapter IV— Specimen Plants - - - - 11 

Soil 11 

Repotting ------- 12 

Stopping ------ 12 

Drainage -------13 

Final Potting - - - - - - 13 

Watering - -.- - - - -14 

Staking - - - - - - . 14 

Disbudding - - - - - - 17 

Feeding ------ 17 

Chapter V— Miscellaneous Plants - - - 19 

Standards - - - - - - 19 

For Market - - - - - - 20 

Single Stemmed - - - - > - 20 

Miniature - - - - - - - 21 

For Cut Flowers ----- 2I 

Grafting 22 

In Open Border - - - - - 23 

Hardy Chrysanthemums - - - - 24 

Chapter VI— Packing Plants - . . 25 



CONTENTS V 

For Express - . . . _ Pag-e 25 

For Mail - - - - - - 26 

For Export - - - = - - 26 

Chapter VII— Exhibition Blooms - - 28 

Planting- ------- 29 

Firming- - - - - - - 30 

Tying- --.-... 31 

Watering- - - - - - - - 31 

Spraying? ----... 32 

Airing ...... 33 

Shading- ------- 33 

Scalding- -...._ 33 

Top-dressing ------ 33 

Removing Stools - - - - - 34 

Blind Growth ------ 35 

Chemical Fertilizers - - - - 36 

Lime ------- 37 

Iron - - - - - - - 37 

Liquid Manure - - " - - - - 38 

Burning and Damping - - - , - 39 

Buds and Disbudding ----- 40 

Taking the Buds - - - . . 41 

Stopping - - - ,- - - - 44 

Record of Operations - - - - 44 

Chapter VII I — Blooms Grown Out-of-Doors - 45 

Another Method - - - - - 47 

Propagation - - - - . . 47 

Potting and Subsequent Treatment - - 48 
Shelter or Snug Harbor - - - .49 

Chapter IX — Commercial Flowers - - 51 

Feeding - - - - - - - 53 

Buds 54 

Early 55 

Late ------- 56 

Height of Plants - •- ... - 55 

When to Cut ------ 57 

Chapter X — Insects ----- 58 

Aphis - - - - - - - 58 

Red Spider -.-..- 58 

Thrips ------- 59 

Mealy Bugs -. - - - - - 59 

Grasshoppers . - . . . 59 

Tarnished Plant Bug ----- 60 

Corythuca Gossypi - - . . gi 



VI SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, 

Grub Worm . . . - . Page 62 

Cut Worm 62 

Lady Bird ._-_-_ 62 

Goldeneye - - - - - - 62 

Chrysanthemum Fly ----- 63 

Chapter XI — Diseases .... 64 

Rust - - - - - - - 64 

Leafspot ...... 65 

Mildew 67 

Chapter XII— Seedlings and Sports - - 68 

Seed Plants 69 

Fertilizing - - - - - - 70 

Seedlings .._.... 72 

Sports .--... 73 

Chapter XIII— Preparing Exhibits - - - 75 

Plants - - - - - - 75 

Cut Flowers ------ 75 

Foreign Shipments ----- 78 

Dressing Flowers ----- 79 

Chapter XIV— Staging . . - . 80 

Staging Plants - - - . . . gO 

Staging Blooms ..... 80 

Boards ..----- 81 

Vases - - - - - - 82 

Chapter XV- Exhibitions ... 83 

The Management .... - 83 

The Judge -.-... 85 

The Exhibitor -....- 87 

Chapter XVI— Types, Etc. - - - - 89 

Incurved .._... 92 

Japanese ...... 92 

Japanese Incurved - - - - - 92 

Hairv 92 

Reflexed - 93 

Large Anemones - - - - - 93 

Japanese Anemones ----- 93 

Pompons ---..- 93 

Pompon Anemones - - - - - 94 

Single .--.-. 94 

Early Flowering Varieties - - - - 94 

Spidery, Plumed, Feathery and Fantastic - 94 

Market and Decorative - - - - - 94 

Identifying ...... 94 

Selection ...... 95 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Frontispiece - - * - - - Pag-e III 

Figure 1 — Cutting-s ----- 7 

2— A Plant by Division - - - - 8 

3- -Stock Grown by Flat System - - 11 

4— Specimen Plant - - - - 16 

5— Market Plant - - - - 19 

6 — Box of Plants Properly Packed - - 25 

7— Bench of "Ivory" Tied to Wires - 30 

8 -Bench Showing- Plants Tied to Twine - B2 

9-Overfed Plants . . . . 35 

10— Crown Bud - - - . - - 41 

11— Terminal Bud - - - - 42 

12— Bloom from Crowe - - - - 43 

13— Shelter or Snug- Harbor - - - 49 

14- Stock Planted June 15, Averag-e Heig-ht, 6 in. 52 

15 — Bloom from Terminal Bud - - 53 
16— Comparative Heig-ht from Crown and Terminal 56 

17— Tarnished Plant Bug- - - - 60 

18— Depredations of the Tarnished Plant Bug - 61 

19— Flower Trimmed Ready for Fertilization 70 

20—1. Pistillate Floret. II. Staminate Floret - 71 

21— A Collection Properly Staged - - 81 

22-Bebe 89 

23— Mrs. F. A. Constable and Guy Hamilton 90 

24— Venetta. Frank Hardy. Col. D, Appleton 91 

25— Pluma - - - - - 92 

26— Yanoma 93 

27— Enterprise - - - - 94 

28— Baby 94 

29— Zoraida ----- 95 

30— Antonious ----- 96 

31— Single - - - - - 96 

32— Fantastic and Odd Types - - - 97 



INTRODUCTION 

During- the past twenty years, I have devoted much 
time and energy to the cultivation and improvement of the 
Chrysanthemum and have received many inquiries from 
those desirous of gaining- knowledge on this subject. Con- 
fronted with these facts, and realizing the urgent need for 
a complete, as well as practical treatise, at a price within 
the reach of all, I make this attempt in compliance with 
these demands. 

It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all 
details pertaining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning 
with stock plants, treating the many branches, through 
each stage of development, up to and including the staging 
of plants and cut blooms. 

Most of the works upon this subject have been confined 
to methods practical only to florists, having ever facility 
necessary to successful culture. 

The amateur, growing a few plants for pleasure and 
eager for better results, has been entirely overlooked. It 
is hoped this booklet will meet the requirements of all. 

There is no plant which responds more freely to care- 
ful attention than the Chrysanthemum. The whole secret 
of success lies in prompt attention to details and when 
these are thoroughly understood and executed, we may 
expect a generous reward. 

The celerity with which the First Edition sold, has 
prompted my issuing this Revised Edition. I trust that 
my efforts will be of assistance to many. 

ELMER D. SMITH 
Member of the Chrysanthemum Society of America 
The National Chrysanthemum Society of England, and 
Society Francaise des Chrysanthemistes 



Smith's Chrysanthemum 
Manual 



CHAPTER I. 

HISTORY 

The derivation of the word Chrysanthemum is from the 
Greek words Chrysos, gold — and Anthemon, a flower. It 
is not easy to say how long- the Chrysanthemum has been 
known to mankind, but undoubtedly over 2000 years have 
elapsed since it was first known in the Celestial Empire. 

In Japan its cultivation can be traced back over 700 
years. Breynius, in 1689, was the first European to men- 
tion the Chrysanthemum under the name of Matricaria 
Japonica Maxima. M. Pierre Louis Blancard introduced the 
first larg-e flowering- varieties into England in 1789 and the 
following year they were flowered and named. Mr. John 
Salter was one of the earliest English hybridizers, and pro- 
duced many wonderful varieties from 1838 to 1848. 

As near as can be ascertained, it has been seventy years 
since they were introduced into America. Dr. H. P. Wal- 
cott is credited as being the first person in this country to 
raise new varieties from seed, which he did as early as 1879. 
The work of hybridization was taken up by Wm. K. Harris 
and John Thorpe early in the 80's. 

Their efforts were crowned with great success both 
originating many new and startling varieties. These 
results were incentive to others until the zenith was reached 



2 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, 

in 1894, when 163 new varieties were offered for sale, many 
of which were inferior to those then in commerce. This 
condition caused many to be skeptical, doubting the merits 
of the so-called novelties, until fully tested. 

In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea 
of org-anizing- a society to protect the interests and also 
promote the development of this flower which was fast gain- 
ing* popularity. In 1890, at Bufl'alo, the organization now 
known as the Chrysanthemum Society of America, was 
established. In 1894 this Society appointed committees 
composed of experts to meet during the following season at 
Chicago, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, New York and Boston, 
to inspect seedlings and sports. These committees have 
been continued from year to year, awarding first-class cer- 
tificates to the deserving ones. 

Such action brought the varieties certificated into promi- 
nence, and those which failed to meet their commendation 
were so little sought a^fter as to be unprofitable, and many 
discontinued hybridizing. Up to the present the Society has 
certificated 307 varieties, most of which were of American 
origin; although a few importations have been thus favored. 

The first exhibition given by the C. S. A. was in No- 
vember, 1902, under the auspices of the Horticultural 
Society of Chicago. At New York, in co-operation with 
the American Institute in 1903. At Boston, with the Massa- 
chusetts Horticultural Society in 1904, and at Philadelphia 
with the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society in 1905. 



CHAPTER 11. 

STOCK PLANTS 

At the close of the flowering" season the old plants must 
be saved for stock, from which to propagate young- plants 
for another year's use. Ea^ch g-rower must decide how 
many will be required and provide the most suitable situ- 
ation for their maintenance. 

The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, 
while the commercial florist may need several thousand of 
the most popular sorts to meet his demand. Some varieties 
are more susceptible of being increased than others, 
making cuttings abundantly and rooting freely. 

Those who propagate for their own use only should keep 
the plants in a low temperature, just above freezing and 
even a few degrees of frost will not materially injure them. 
They thrive best when kept on the dry side during the dark 
days of winter, at which time they are rather inactive. The 
florist who requires quantities for early distribution, will 
be obliged to give higher temperature, about 50 degrees; 
and their needs for water should be carefully considered, 
avoiding if possible too abundant and frequent use, as such 
a course tends to weaken the plants, thus giving sickly 
cuttings. 

Another plan adopted by many private gardeners and 
those requiring only a limited number of plants, is to root 
sufficient cuttings in November and dispense with the old 
stock plants. 

Early Propagation —Slock plants for early propaga- 
tion are generally planted on greenhouse benches, producing 
successive crops of cuttings. With the new and scarce sorts 
it is sometimes advisable to take cuttings even as early as 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

September or October, and as soon as rooted, these are 
planted in shallow boxes or upon the bench. When large 
enoug-h the tops are taken off as cuttings. This induces the 
plants to make new breaks, which are used for cuttings 
when of suitable size. 

Cold Frames— The cold frame system is the most prac- 
tical for those who do not have greenhouses, and the 
wholesale florist who needs large quantities of plants for 
June and July delivery, will find them equally serviceable. 

In the construction of cold frames there is no objection 
to excavating one or two feet, provided ample drainage can 
be secured; otherwise it is best to make board frames and 
plant stock on the level or slightly elevated so that no sur- 
plus moisture will remain aboat the roots. Stock thus 
stored should be protected by covering the frames with 
boards. To prevent continual freezing and thawing, these 
frames must be covered with course manure or litter. Most 
varieties are not injured by freezing provided they are kept 
in this condition until spring. 

Field Grown— Field grown stock is in every way more 
satisfactory than that which has produced blooms under 
glass. They appear to possess more vigor and give suc- 
cessive crops with greater rapidity. These may be handled 
in cold frames as previously mentioned, or removed to 
greenhouse when early propagation is necessary. 

Imported Stock— T^ose importing foreign varieties often 
find them in very poor condition when unpacked. This is 
not to be wondered at when we consider they are two to six 
weeks in transit. They are generally packed in dry cocoa- 
nut fiber, and when taken from the box look like dry sticks. 
It is only by the utmost vigilance and care that such plants 
are nursed into activity. Immerse them into tepid water 
for a few hours to plump the wood and roots. 

After removing all lifeless growth, pot them in light 
soil, using as small a pot as will accommodate the roots. 



STOCK PLANTS 5 

It should be the aim to induce root growth as soon as pos- 
sible and to do this plunge them into a close case which is 
provided with gentle bottom heat, about 70 degrees will 
suffice. See that the material in which they are plunged is 
kept on the dry side and use water rather sparingly until 
they begin to grow freely. They should be looked to several 
times each day and if the plants or soil show signs of fun- 
gus, ventilation must be given, for such conditions, if not 
promptly checked, are fatal. It is often wise to remove the 
cuttings when quite small and root them, especially if the 
old plants are weak or show signs of decay. 

By taking this course it is possible to establish a small 
plant upon its own root, which would otherwise be lost if 
allowed to remain until the old plant had gained vigor. 

Novelties and Scarce .S'orits— Novelties and scarce sorts 
are often bought in limited quantity to propagate from. 
The best results are obtained by planting these young 
plants into flats (shallow boxes), or upon the bench in 
shallow soil. As soon as they show signs of growth, the 
tops are taken as cuttings and the plants are treated there- 
after same as stock plants. 

It is imprudent to over-propagate, taking every cutting 
as soon as large enough to root, better let the cutting pet 
strong so that a few leaves are left on the plants. These 
will greatly assist in establishing strong stock. 



CHAPTER HI. 

PROPAGATION 

Assuming' the old plants (stock plants) have beencared 
for and are in proper condition, the next step is the propa- 
gation of young- plants. This is best done with soft wood 
cuttings or divisions; the former, however, are g-enerally 
used. 

Cutting Bench— The cutting- bench is simply a table or 
bench constructed to hold three or four inches of material 
into which the cutting-s may be inserted. Clean washed 
sand is considered the best material, but when unavailable, 
coke, brick or stone finely crushed and screened will g-ive 
very satisfactory results. After the bench is lilled with 
sand it should be pounded as firm as possible and g-iven a 
thoroug-h watering when it is ready for use. In preparing 
these benches see that all material is clean and free from 
decaying matter and to this end a coat of whitewash will be 
beneficial. 

Selection of Cuttings — In the selection of cuttings it is 
generally conceded the strong and vigorous are the best, 
although on several occasions we have had excellent re- 
sults from those grown in the shade and drawn with heat 
until they were the si/e of knitting needles. Stock properly 
handled will give good cuttings, and would take weak ones 
only when absolutely necessary. 

Making Cuttings— These are cut from an inch to three 
inches long, removing the lower and shortening the tips of 
the larger leaves. See Fig. 1. 

With a knife make a cut in the sand % in. deep, or 
more, according to length of cuttings, inserting close 
together and firm the si-nd well about them. Give the whole 



PROPAGATION 7 

a liberal watering- and keep constantly wet until rooted, 
which will require six to twelve days. 

To insure the larg-est percentage the cuttin^-s should be 
moderately soft at the time they are removed from the plant. 
Sing-le eye cuttino-s of new and scarce sorts may be used 
when necessary. These are fastened to toothpicks with fine 
stemming- wire, allowing- half of the toothpick to extend 
below the end of the cutting, which should firmly rest on the 




FIG. 1, CUTTINGS— A, LONG; H, SHCJllT; C, SlNdlJ-: l^^VK 



sand when inserted in the bed. See C, Fig-. 1. It requires 
more time to produce g-ood plants by this system than where 
fair-sized cutting-s are taken, but is often of service when 
stock is limited. 

Air and Temperature— The. propag-ating house should 
be well aired and as far as possible the atmospheric temper- 
ature should not exceed 55 degrees, with a bottom heat of 
10 degrees higher. 

The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



that no fast rule can be given. They may be struck in a 
temperature as low as 40 and as high as 80 degrees, but if 
the former is adopted they root very slowly, many varieties 
become hardened and thus the object is defeated. On the 
other hand if too high temperature is used, cutting bench 
fungus is liable to set in and ruin the crop. 

Shading— As the season advances and the out-door 
temperature rises, it is impossible to maintain 55 degrees 
and the soft cuttings 
are very much in- 
clined to flag or wilt. 
For February and 
March propagation, 
tack burlap on the 
underside of the 
glass to exclude the 
greater portion of 
sunlight, and as the 
season advances ap- 
ply whitewash on 
outside of the glass. 
By such protection 
the cuttinws can be 
successfully rooted 
up to 1st of May. 
After this date cover 
the propagating beds 
with newspapers to 
further protect them 
from the extreme 
heat and give cop- 
ious watering two 
or three times a day. ^i^- 2. a plant by division 
Let the condition of 

cuttings be index for shading but use every pre- 
caution necessary to prevent wilting, exclude light by 




PROPAGATION 9 

covering- and dampen the walks to lower the temperature. 

Watering — It is very important that cutting-s should 
never get dry, for under such conditions the end inserted 
in the sand becomes brown and hardened and will not 
take up water in sufficient quantity to revive the foliage, thus 
becoming worthless. Many of the wholesale florists propa- 
gate Chrysanthemums the year round, although the bulk 
are struck during the months of March, April and May. 

Saucer System—Those who wish to propagate a lew 
plants and are not favored with the facilities of the 
greenhouse, may use shallow boxes or any dish that will 
hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cuttings 
may be inserted at a time by adopting the ''Saucer 
System" given by Peter Henderson in his work "Practical 
Floral Culture, " which is as follows: "It is called the 
Saucer System because saucers or plates are used to hold 
the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put 
in to a depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted 
in it close enough to touch each other. The sand is then 
watered until it becomes the condition of mud, and placed 
on the window sill fully exposed to the sun. But one con- 
dition is essential to success, until the cuttings become 
rooted the sand must be continually saturated and kept in 
the condition of mud; if once allowed to dry up, the whole 
operation will be defeated." 

English Method— The English method may also be of 
service to the amateur and is as follows: Insert three or 
four cuttings around the edge of a four-inch pot that has 
been previously filled with light soil, consisting of loam, 
sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are placed into a 
close frame and given same attention as suggested for Im- 
ported Stock, pg. 4. 

Divisio7LS— In localities where the plants remain out-of- 
doors over winter without injury, they can be increased by 
removing the sprouts or stools that have sprung up from 
he base of the old plant. As these stools come into active 



10 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

o-rowth, roots are formed near the surface of the soil, and 
may then be removed and replanted or potted as desired. 
Often such pieces are difficult to pot owing to the long- 
crooked stems. These are removed as shown in Fig-. 2, 
leaving- a few roots to establish the young plant. New 
varieties are generally produced by seeds which are fully 
treated in Chapter XII. 

Potting— Cuttings should not remain in the bench after 
the roots are half an inch long, as they are potted easier 
and better in every way than when allowed to remain until 
the roots are further developed. 

The soil should not be dry, but moist enough to remain 
intact when squeezed in the hand, and on the other hand 
not be muddy. Cuttings are usually potted in small pots, 
the two-inch size being amj^le. Put sufficient soil in the 
bottom of the pot, so that the base of the cutting will be 
:about % of an inch below the surface, hold cutting in center 
■of pot with one hand and fill in with the other. Firm the 
soil with thumb or fingers enough to keep the cutting up- 
right and be sure to leave sufficient space for water, which 
should be applied liberally without delay. 

Putting the cuttings in flats, (shallow boxes) instead of 
potting has long been in v^ogue and is the best course to 
persue, insuring good stock at planting time with less 
labor involved. See Fig 3. 



CHAPTER IV. 

SPECIMEN PLANTS*. 

Cutting's may be taken any time from January 15th, to 
March 15th, but those struck in February give best results. 
As soon as rooted they are potted in 2 in. pots using light 
soil and placed in a cool, airy house and as near the glass 




FIG. 3. STOCK GROWN BY FLAT SYSTEM. 

as possible. If given proper attention, such plants will 
make large specimens from three to six feet high, and nearly 
as wide by flowering time. In the course of a week or ten 
days the roots will push to the side of the pot and will need 
shifting into the next larger size. 

Soil — There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited 

*This chapter is largely writings which have appeared in the Ameri- 
can Florist and are from T. D. Hatfield, Wellesley, Mass., who has been 
eminently successful in this important branch of chrysantheniumculture 



12 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

for Chrysanthemums. Each expert has a way of his own in 
preparing- the soil, but as equally good results have been 
obtained under varied conditions, it is safe to conclude that 
the compost employed has little to do with results, provided 
it contains sufficient food to nourish the plant and the cul- 
tivator is a close observer, considering- the conditions 
under which they are g-rown. 

All concede that fresh cut sod piled late the preceding- 
fall with one-fourth of its bulk of decomposed manure, 
makes an excellent compost. 

Repotting — Turn out the plants, take them with the left 
hand and place in the new pot (which is generally an inch 
larger than the one from which they were removed) so that 
the ball is a half an inch below the rim of the pot and the 
plant stands in the center. While held in this position, till 
in sufficient soil and firm gently with a stick around the pot, 
until it is filled level with the original ball of earth. If the 
soil is retentive and rather wet, the ramming process can 
be carried to extremes, but if of a light nature, it should be 
made rather firm, and when the final potting is done, it can 
scarcely be carried to excess. 

Stopping — The term "stopping" means pinching out the 
center of a shoot, and the object is, to force the plant to 
make several growths instead of the present one. 

When the plants are established in four-inch pots they 
are generally from four to six inches high, and at this stage 
the pinching and stopping begins. This should be done a 
few days before repotting or deferred until after the plants 
have made roots into the new soil. This induces the plant 
to make several side shoots, and as soon as these have 
attained four or five inches in length they are again stopped. 
This work is repeated throughout the season up to August 
lOfch. Some of the varieties may be stopped a trifle later, 
but each cultivator must know the flowering time of those 
under his care. The early varieties set bud earlier, and it 
may be wise to discontinue stopping some of these as early 



SPEC;iMEN PLANTS 13 

as August 1st. By April 1st to 15th the plants should be 
in full vigor and ready to shift into six-inch pots; with this 
potting use a richer soil by adding to the ordinary compost 
a dusting of wood ashes, and a little pulverized sheep 
manure. The latter should be used in very small pro- 
portions. 

Drainage — Free drainage is essential and would recom- 
mend charcoal to be used for such varieties as are liable to 
burn. Coal ashes is also a good material for this purpose 
and may be used as advantageously as broken crocks. Pot 
firmly when the soil is light, and loosely when the soil is 
heavy. At this stage the plants are carefully observed, 
their manner of growth noted, also tendency to break, and 
liability to disease. The good as well as the bad points are 
almost certain to appear during April and only such as 
promise well are shifted up to the largest sizes. Some of 
the varieties have the habit of setting premature buds at this 
stage of growth. Such conditions are unfavorable to the 
production of fine specimens, although the greater majority 
will outgrow the defect after this blooming period has 



From 1st to 15th of May another shift will be necessary 
and this time into seven or eight inch pots, according to the 
varieties. The weaker growing should be put into the 
smaller size, and the stronger ones into the largest. As the 
plants at this season begin to assume some size and owing 
to the higher temperature which prevails, the watering will 
need constant attention. In repotting at this time the plants 
should be set low enough in the pot to allow ample space 
for water, not less than an inch, but better an inch and a 
half, to hold sufficient water to saturate all parts of the soil. 

Final Potting— -The final potting occurs from June 1st 
to 15th; for this give a richer compost, using a rather 
rough open soil containiTig a large portion of broken, half 
decomposed sods. This must be packed more firmly in the 



14 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

pots. A close, heavy loam is bad, but if it must be used, it 
should be only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may be 
used to keep the water passing- out freely. 

Watering— All experts agree that the plants should never 
sutfer for want of water, and consider it one of the most 
important details in all stages of development. On the 
other hand it is very important that the drainage be ample 
so that the water passes through freely, thus preventing 
stagnation, a condition conductive to disease, which will 
finally result in failure. 

It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants 
in pots is not fully indicated by the appearance of the soil. 
A very accurate course to follow is to rap the pots with the 
knuckles or a stick, those that are wet have a dull sound, 
those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days trial will 
teach the operator to detect the difference in sound at an 
instance. 

Staking— During August many of the plants will have 
attained considerable height, even though they have been 
stopped every few days. Those which are inclined to make 
too dense growth should be provided with a few stakes and 
the branches gradually tied out to the desired form, thus 
making a foundation to build upon later. These stakes will 
need to be removed later on, and replaced by larger ones, 
when it is determined how tall the plants are likely to grow. 

Early in September it will be necessary to consider the 
final staking and tying out. The main object in specimen 
plants is to develop as many growing shoots as possible 
before the middle of August, arranging them so as to keep 
the plants even and regular in form. How this is to be done 
is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at 
once as more shapely plants can be formed. If the plants 
are desired for exhibition purposes and to be trans- 
ported some distance to the exhibition hall, the stake system 
is preferable to that of the wire frame, the advantage being 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 15 

that plants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there 
will be no friction, and at the same time occupy much less- 
space. 

The best course to follow in the matter of staking and 
tying largely depends upon the size and. form to which they 
are to be trained. The Japanese growers shape their plants 
into many artistic designs, such as crosses, fans, boats, 
parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected it is 
necessary to make a temporary frame-work of wire or 
stakes to which the shoots may be tied out into the form 
desired, and this should be provided before the plants 
attain any great size. The forms generally adopted for ex- 
hibition groups are round and slightly elevated in the cen- 
ter, as shown in Fig. 4, page 16, and are grown all sizes 
from three to six feet in height and nearly as wide. 

The operation of staking is simply placing stakes into 
the soil, the outer ones at such an angle' as to bring the 
branches in the desired position to give the plant the 
required diameter. Additional stakes are supplemented to 
hold the inner branches in position. 

The best material for tying is silkaline, which does not 
slip, being soft, does not injure the shoots and as its color 
is green, is not so conspicuous as where white string is used. 

Tying out should not be left too long in fact, it should 
be done every few days. There are always some over- 
grown vigorous shoots which are difficult to accommodate, 
but while supple they will bend easily. A bad hole or open 
space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths, 
bending them down and tying securely. When specimen 
plants are grown for conservatory decoration, or where they 
can be practically transported to the exhibition hall, the 
wire frames may be used. 

When wire frames are used, tie as many shoots as 
possible to the lower part of the frame, as the greatest 
danger is congestion at the top. 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 17 

DUbudding— The operation of disbudding will need 
attention early in September, the early varieties settincf 
buds first and the later ones following-, according- to the 
natural flowering time. For early exhibitions, say the 1st 
of November, buds should be prominent by September 15, 
and showing- color four weeks later. At least three weeks 
are required after they show color until maturity. 

Generally all the specimen plants produce terminal 
buds; each shoot bearing- a cluster at the extremity, which 
is disbudded so as to leave only one bud to each and this 
the center one. In this way the flowers are uniform in size, 
and if the plant has been well trained and tied out, these 
individual blooms will nearly touch each other. 

After setting buds the plants will begin sending out 
suckers from the roots in all directions, which if allowed to 
remain rob the buds of the nourishment which has been 
provided for their development. These should be removed 
at once and this operation repeated as often as they appear, 
as well as any lateral growths which may start from the 
shoots. 

Feedmgr— The application of stimulants requires careful 
consideration and should be entrustied only to persons of 
judgment and discretion. With the roots so much confined 
in the pots, even more care is required than where the bench 
system is employed in the production of cut blooms. 

The pots must be filled with roots and the drainage per- 
fectly free to begin with. If cow manure is used as a top 
dressing it would be best to dry it first and afterwards 
break into small pieces. This acts as a mulch and fertil- 
izer at the same time. As a safe and lasting stimulant, 
pulverized sheep manure is preferred, which should be ap- 
plied in the form of a top dressing, adding a little sandy 
loam to keep it open. Liquid manure may also be used if 
the plant continues healthy, applying once a week at first 
and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate of 



18 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

ammonium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with 
wonderful results, but must be applied with discretion. 

From the time the buds are set, success depends very 
much upon the judicious use of fertilizers, either in liquid 
form or a top dressing. Some plants will take liquid 
manure in liberal amounts, others if so treated are easily 
injured. Over-feeding shows itself in yellow, stunted foliage. 
When this occurs use clear water and let them get as dry as 
they can with safety. 

The grower needs to be acquainted with the plants as 
with individuals; it is a matter of experience and when 
carefully done may be continued until the buds show color. 
It is, however, worthy to note that pink and red varieties, 
including bronze, show lack of color and also burn easily 
if feeding is continued too long. Cray's fertilizer is a good 
manure and perfectly safe to use either as a liquid or top 
dressing mixed with a little loam. Soot water at times and 
weak lime water will sweeten the soil. 

The drainage must, however, be kept free, and this is 
sometimes difficult at the end of the season, when the pots 
are filled with roots. Punching holes through the ball to 
the drainage will generally relieve water-logged plants. 



CHAPTER V 



MISCELLANEOU:^ PLANTS 



Standards— The cultural directions g-iven for specimen 
plants will be suitable tor this purpose.' The g-reatest differ- 
ence being- the training-, allowing- them to g-row without 
stopping- until they have attained the desired heig-ht. 
Standards are g-enerally about five feet to the lower 

branche s, 
a 1 tho ug- h 
there is no 
fixed rule 
on this sub- 
ject, and 
they may be 
grown any 
heig-ht, from 
three feet 
(which are 
termed half- 
standards ,) 
totheheighi 
menti one d 
above. It 
is necessary 
the cutting-s 
be propag-a- 
ted early. 
When need- 
ed, provide 

with one strong- stake for each plant, to which it is tied to 
keep the stem straight. As soon as they reach the desired 




FIG. D. MARKET PLANT. 



20 ^ smith's chrysanthemum manual 

heio-ht pinch out the center. The several breaks which fol- 
low form the foundation for top or head ot the standard. 
These are nipped every few days the same as specimen 
plants. The training- will require same care and attention, 
as well as disbudding-, feeding- and other details. 

For Market —Dwarf plants of symmetrical form, with 
foliag-e down to the pots, are the most salable, and when 
thus g-rown require constant attention as to watering- and 
stopping-, allowing each plant plenty of room to keep the 
lower leaves in a healthy condition. Cutting-s taken June 
Ist and g-rown on, either in pots, planted on old carnation 
benches, or in spent hot-beds (lig'ht soil preferable) and 
lifted by August XSth will make very nice plants 1% to 2 
feet high. The reason for lifting early is to have them well 
established in their flowering pots before the buds are 
formed. 

Another system is sometimes employed which gives 
very dwarf symmetrical plants and often utilizes consider- 
able stock that would otherwise be worthless. Cuttings 
that were struck late in June and potted in two-inch pots 
may be put several together in one pot about August 1st, pro- 
vided they are in thrifty condition. Three plants to a five- 
inch pot and five or six to a seven-inch and so on. By sorting 
and placing the taller in the center and shorter at the edge, 
very symmetrical plants may be had. Disbudding and 
feeding will need attention to assure best results. 

Single Stemmed —The same culture as given for market 
plants will suffice for this class, except they are generally 
grown in pots and restricted to one stem and flower. Those 
from one to two feet in height are more effective and useful 
than taller ones; for this reason many prefer plunging out- 
of-doors where they will have full benefit of the sun and air, 
making them more dwarf than those grown under glass. 

Cuttings rooted early in June are best for this purpose. 
They must be repotted, staked and tied as their needs de- 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 21 

raand. In July the final potting takes place and the soil 
should be made very firm to secure short-jointed growth. 

Miniature — There has not been much attention given to 
this class in this country, although cultural directions are 
given in many of the old English works . 

The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the last 
of August, according to the earliness of the variety. They 
are taken at the period when the buds are just beginning to 
form and if delayed until very far advanced, the wood 
becomes hardened and do not root freely. These cuttings 
should be potted immediately into light soil and placed in 
a close frame which has been made the same as a hot-bed 
with fresh manure to give forth a gentle bottom heat. 

In selecting cuttings take strong shoots from plants in 
the open, border or those grown under glass, and if the 
selection is made from those which naturally do not grow 
high, so much the better. A 3 to 3% inch pot is large 
enough for this purpose. After the cuttings have been 
plunged therein they must be covered with a sash and 
shaded to keep out the strong light. It is also advisable 
to spray them over two or three times a day which will 
maintain the most genial condition for root formation. 

As soon as rooted (which may be ascertained by turn- 
ing them out) air should be given the frame, a little at first 
and increasing every few days, to gradually harden the 
plants to a natural condition, fn this manner plants can 
be had 8 inches high with blooms 5 inches in diameter. 

For Cut Flowers— The pot system is employed by all 
English growers and doubtless most of those on the Conti- 
nent. Culture, same as for Market or Single Stem as far 
as training is concerned, shifting from time to time as di- 
rected for specimen plants. Propagation may take place 
from February to May, according to the variety and 
requirements of the cultivator. Throughout England these 
plants are potted and plunged in the open border as soon 



22 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

as dang-er of frost is over, an ' could be so treated in this 
country if it were not for the ravishes of the Tarnished 
Plant Bug", which is so numerous. 

If exhibition blooms are desired they may be grown to 
sing-le stem, or stopped early in June, saving- three breaks 
which are grown on, each to produce a flower later. 

Grafting— There are two objects in grafting- chrysan- 
themums, first, to increase the vitality of weak g-rowing 
varieties by grafting upon strong kinds. Second, to dis- 
play a number of varieties on one plant at the same time. 
To the experienced gardener this art is of little or no in- 
terest, but to the novice there is something wonderful in the 
sight of a plant having a dozen or more distinct varieties 
flowering simultaneously. Such plants attract a great deal 
of attention at the exhibitions. 

Where it is the desire to increase the vitality, cuttings 
are struck in the autumn or winter months, and grown on 
in a cold greenhouse until early spring. These are used as 
stock upon which to graft, and should be done in March or 
April. Select scions from the weak growing kinds ^-nd cut 
the end in the form of a wedge. After cutting out the top 
of the stock an inch or so above the ground, make a slit an 
inch in depth in the stump and insert the wedge shaped 
scion, tying securely in place with raffia or light cotton 
yarn. 

It is necessary that the wood of both stock and scion be 
in a half-ripened condition, reasonably firm, and if possi- 
ble have both the same size. In case it is impossible to 
find scions of the same diameter as the stock, the scion 
should be set to one side of the incision so that the bark of 
both will be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of 
the greenhouse or any place where a close atmosphere can 
be maintained for a few days will be necessary to insure 
their uniting. If the weather is warm and the sun very 
bright it is sometimes advisable to shade the plants to pre- 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 23 

vent scion from wnting", and occasionally sphagnum 
moss is wrapped around the union and the foliage moistened 
to prevent too rapid evaporation. As soon as the scions 
become established, which is generally in the course of 
eight or ten days, the tying material can be removed and 
the plants given more air, receiving the same care and 
attention as other plants. 

For grafted specimens it is important that all the 
varieties should flower at the same time, and to secure 
maximum effect some thought should be given to arrange- 
ment of the colors. The most showy specimens are pro- 
duced by grafting upon strong growing standards, using 
one variety to each shoot. All lateral growths or breaks 
starting out of the stock should be removed as fast as they 
appear. 

In Open Border— Most of the previous forms of plants 
may be grown in the open border with fairly good success. 
The essential points are that they be planted on light soil 
which permits of their being taken up without breaking 
away too many roots. If large specimen plants are to be 
treated this way, ample space must be giren so they do not 
bepome crowded, and afford the operator room to attend to 
stopping, etc. 

The lifting and potting should be done not later than 
August 15th, so that the plants will become well established 
in their new quarters before buds are formed. After potting 
it is necessary they have a copious watering and be set in a 
sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts as much as 
possible. An old shed that will afford some light is a very 
suitable place. 

From this time on little water will be required at the 
root until they have become thoroughly established. It 
will be advisable, however, to dew over the foliage several 
times each day to prevent flagging. As soon as estab- 



24 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

lished, g-ive lig-ht, gradually increased each day until they 
can stand full sun. 

Hardy Chrysanthemums — Most Chrysanthemums are 
hardy out-of-doors in the northern states with slight pro- 
tection as far as their roots are concerned, but fail to be 
satisfactory owing to early frosts which ruin the buds when 
in a half-developed condition. The most serviceable 
varieties are the early flowering Pompons, which perfect 
their flowers before frost. Many of the later ones can be 
used to advantage in the southern states, or in localities 
where severe frosts are not expected until the middle of 
November. 



CHAPTER VL 



PACKING PLANTS 



For Express — For shipments not requiring* more than 
five or six days to reach destination, pack in wooden boxes 
that have been previously lined with paper or other 
material to keep out the frost. The plants should be 
thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped 
lig-ht iri some sort of pliable paper to keep the earth intact. 
With a lig-ht coat of excelsior on the bottom of the box, the 
plants are then placed in rows close together on their sides, 
with ball of earth 
next to end of the box. 
This is followed by 
another row in which 
the ball is placed 
next to that in the 
first row, the opera- 
tion being- repeated 
until bottom of the 
box is covered. In 
putting in the next 
tier, reverse them, 
beginning- at the 
other end and so 
continue until fin- ' 
ished. The main 
object is to pack 
secarely, preventing 
them from shifting, 
even thoug-h roug-hly 
handled. Any intervening- spaces between the plants and 




FIG. 6. BOX 
PROPERLY 



OF PLANTS 
PACKED. 



2(i SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

side or top of the box should be filled with excelsior, saw- 
dust,- or some other material, so that if the package is 
turned upside down they cannot move about. ( See Fig. 6. ) 

Inexperienced packers invariably fail in this respect 
and often when the plants reach destination they have so 
shifted in the box as to be entirely destitute of soil, as well 
as badly broken. See to it that they cannot move. 

Each variety must be labeled and some means provided 
so that the recipient can unpack without danger of getting 
them mixed. A system many have adopted is to wrap one, 
two, three or four plants of a kind into a bundle, each 
bundle being provided with a label, and are thus packed. 
Where five or more of a kind are ordered they are 
separated by a sheet of paper. 

In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to 
wrap the boxes with several thicknesses of paper as a safe- 
guard against frost. In very warm weather the foregoing 
method is impractical, as they are likely to heat and thus 
be ruined. From May to October the plants are generally 
wrapped and set upright in shallow boxes which have been 
provided with a post in each corner to which cleats are 
nailed. Then slats are placed an inch apart to form the 
cover, thus assuring a free circulation of air. 

For Mail— In packing plants for mail shipments the soil 
is washed from the roots, these are then wrapped in damp 
moss and wax paper in small bundles, containing not to 
exceed 25 in each bundle. These are generally labeled with 
a tough paper label and packed in paraffine lined boxes or 
those made of corrugated board. iVU unoccupied space 
must be filled firmly with excelsior or similar material. 

For Ea-jjort— In packing for export there are two sys- 
tems employed, one for the winter months, when t»iey are 
packed tight, and the other for summer, which should pro- 
vide light and air to the plants. When packed close, 
excessive moisture is to be strongly guarded against. 



1\ACKING PLANTS 27 

Under such conditions the plants are sure to rot if they are 
to remain packed more than six days. There is sutticient 
moisture in the plant itself to retain vitality for some time, 
and whatever is used to fill up the intervening- spaces should 
be perfectly dry. Moss, excelsior or cocoanut fiber are 
the best materials for filling. 

Plants that are to be exported should be put into a cold, 
airy house for a week or ten days and watered very spar- 
ing-ly so as to harden the wood. If packed too soft, they 
generally perish. Before placing in the boxes remove 
most of the foliage as it is very apt to die and cause decay. 
The balls of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and tied 
securely. Place the plants in an upright position, on the 
bottom of the box, using a cleat to each row; in this man- 
ner they are held secure in the desired position. If the 
weather is severe, protection against frost will be necessary, 
and may be provided as previously described. 

In hot weather the same method is employed with the 
exception that damp moss is used, wrapping each ball with 
wax paper. Holes are bored through the sides of the box 
to admit light and air. The holes are generally covered 
on the inside of the box with galvanized wire screen to 
keep mice from girdling them while on ship-board. 

Small foreign shipments are sometimes made by re- 
moving the soil and placing the plants in tin boxes, filling 
the intervening spaces with dry cocoanut fiber or moss. It is 
very important when packed in thismannerthat all the leaves 
be removed except those undeveloped at the top. If the 
plants have been hardened there will be little loss. It is 
easy to test a system of packing by preparing shipment, 
open after a period sutticient for its delivery and note the 
condition, or if desired pot them to ascertain how many 
will survive. 



CHAPTEB Vn 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



In beginning" this section we wish to impress upon the 
reader the fallacy of laying- down hard, fast rules, as most 
of the best g-rowers obtain satisfactory results under a sys- 
tem of their own. The Eng-lish g-rowers consider it import- 
ant that cutting-s should be taken in January and February, 
and grown along- slowly for best results. Their method of 
growing is in pots, however, and the one generally 
employed in this country is the bench system. 

The private gardener who has ample space can follow 
this method with good results, but the commercial grower 
whosB space is so valuable, can scarcely afford to do so 
and must depend on cuttings struck later. March and 
April are doubtless the months when the bulk of the cut- 
tings are rooted for this purpose. The note on selection 
of cuttings for specimen plants will apply in this case. 

Assuming the cuttings have been rooted and potted in 
small pots, they should be kept in a light, airy house and 
if the planting cannot take place until the first of June they 
will need to be shifted to three-inch pots, so as not to 
become pot-bound. Should it be impossible to provide 
room for this stock after repotting, it will be better to put 
cuttings in the sand May 1st, and plant directly from two- 
inch pots. In this way the plants will not harden in the 
least and push forward without delay. 

As to soil this was fully defined under heading of 
Specimen Plants. It is best not to have it too rich at 
planting time, but add fertilizers little by little as required. 
In this way there is less waste of material and the plants 
recei ve the maximum benefit. 



EXHIBITION BJ.O()MS 21^ 

Partially decayed sod is an excellent material to which 
plants take kindly, and if no manure has been added the 
cultivator has complete control of the varieties under his 
care. Some varieties, like Mme. Carnot and its sports, are 
injured by rich soil. By following this plan each variety 
can be treated according- to its requirements, g-ivin^one or 
more applications of top-dressing- or liquid fertilizers as 
desired. This work should be deferred until the plants 
show signs of active g-rowih, which is g-enerally during- July. 

Planting— Those who have houses of sufficient heig-ht 
and can plant by May 15th, doubtless have best results 
in as much as the plant has a long-er period of g-rowth and 
becomes thoroug-hly established. 

As to depth of soil it may be used from four to six 
inches, the former preferred, as there is less liability of its 
becoming- sour by overwatering before the plants are well 
established. When the benches are made ready and filled 
with soil, the next step is to decide how far apart they shall 
be planted. There are many opinions upon this subject 
and without question the best results are obtained where 
ample room is given for full development of the plant. 
With most varieties ten inches apart each way is little 
enoug-h, althoug'h a few kinds which produce small foliag-e 
mig-ht be planted closer. In planting-, firm them well, leaving 
a slig-ht depression around each plant to receive the first 
few applications of water, but do not wet entire until the 
plants make new roots and are strong- enough to utilize all 
the soil. 

This condition is apparent at the pushing forth of vig- 
orous g-rowth which indicates a corresponding- strong- root 
action. At this stage the whole soil should be watered. 

It often happens (for various reasons) that it is not 
])ractical to purchase new stock to replace those which have 
become pot-bound, and thus hardened. In such cases plant 
them down to the soft growth or on their side, layer- 



30 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



fashion, allowing- only the soft top to extend above the soil. 
As the season advances this layered portion Avill make 
roots and assist materially in the construction of the 
plant. This method is advocated only when absolutely 
necessary and should not be considered when prime stock 
is available. 

Firming — After the plants beg-in making- rapid g-rowth, 
g-o over the bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm 




FIG. i. BENCH OF "IVORY" TIED TO WIRES. 

the soil, so that the original four inches will not exceed 
three when firmed. If of a porous nature it can scarcely be 
overdone, but if stiff clay, caution is advisable lest tke 
drainag-e be impaired. By planting- in shallow soil and 
firming- it well, conditions are established very similar to 
those of the pot system, which will produce short-jointed 
plants. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 31 

Tying— As soon as the plants are 8 inches in height 
some arrangement must be made for staking- and tying. 
There are several systems:— dwarf, short-jointed varieties, 
like Merza and others, may be tied to wires running full 
lengtn of the row, supplying additional wires when 
required. See Fig. 7. 

Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched 
tight over each row. Most commercial places use the 
twine system, which consists of two wires, one over each 
row of plants and the other a few inches above the soil. 
Two-ply jute twine is cut the proper length and tied to top 
and bottom wire. To this twine the plants are tied as often 
as required. See Fig 8. 

Watering —From this time on the principal detail is 
watering, which requires constant attention and whosoever 
has this charg'e must rely on his own discretion. The plants 
being vigorous, will use up quantities of water each day 
and from this time until the flowers are cut they must not 
suffer for the want of it. At the same time we must guard 
against overdoing, particularly is this the case with many 
of the weaker growing sorts which suddenly tell us of our 
mal-treatment by the foliage beginning to turn yellow, 
showing a sickly appearance. The best remedy is with- 
holding water, not to a degree that will injure the plant for 
want of it, but sufficient to restore its normal condition. 
Let the appearance of the foliage be an index to the supply 
of water. 

As long as the foliage is luxuriant and healthy in color 
we may feel assured that the supply of water is not in excess 
of their demands. 

To maintain these conditions it is important that all 
dry spots in the benches be thoroughly watered before 
spraying the plants. 

Those who prefer to do watering and spraying in one 
operation should walk backward, watering the dry spots as 



32 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

they appear and then do the spraying-. If the spray reaches 
the dry spots their identity is lost and thus are passed by 
without fully saturating-. 

Spraying— Spr a, J ing; overhead will be necessary to keep 
Red Spiders in check, which are very hard to control. 
This process will require some judg-ment, for if repeated 




BENCH SHOWING PLANTS TIED TO TWINE. 



too often or late in the day it is apt to cause rust and other 
diseases. There is not so much danger during- the hot 
summer months, but from August 15th to flowering time no 
water should be applied after 3 p. m., so that the plants 
will be perfectly dry by night. (See diseases.) 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 33 

Airing — The chrysanthemum does not enjoy a close, 
stuffy atmosphere, hence an abundance of air durino- the 
growing season is important. 

Not only during the day but night also, at all times 
unless the building is in jeopardy from approaching vio- 
lent storms. 

Shading — A few years ago it was considered necessary 
to give a light shading through the summer months to 
Chrysanthemums planted under glass. This is hardly 
necessary in most localities, as shorter jointed plants and 
firmer wood result from full exposure to the sun. 

At the approach of color it is quite important the pink 
and red varieties be partly shaded from the direct rays of 
the sun, as these colors seem to be easily faded. There 
may be localities where this would be unnecessary, but in 
the middle states it often continues warm and bright into 
October and such precaution is necessary to secure color of 
the highest degree. 

Scalding— After a few days of dull weather, (which 
makes the growth unusually soft) followed by very bright 
sun, the young tips sometimes scald or burn. . In such 
cases use every effort to prevent them from wilting. Fre- 
quent spraying will keep the atmosphere charged with 
moisture and be very beneficial. Should this fail, apply a 
light shading of clay to the glass. This is prepared by 
adding sufficient clay to water to make it muddy and 
applied by spraying over the roof. It is unwise to use a 
permanent shading, and the one suggested will disappear 
with the first shower, or by spraying. 

Top-Dressing — It the detB^Ws given ha\^e been attended 
to, in the course of six to eight weeks the stock will be 
making rapid growth, and the roots extending to all parts 
of the soil. At this period they will require some ad- 
ditional food and a light top-dressing of manure from spent 



34 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

hot-beds in a half rotted state, or dry pulverized cow or 
sheep manure may be used to advantage. 

If the stock has been planted by May 15th, this opera- 
tion will ta,ke place early in July, and 30 days later the 
second top-dressing may be applied. If the planting- does 
not occur until the first week of June we would advise giving 
the first top-dressing second or third week of July, and 
second the third week of August, provided the plants are 
in a healthy, active state and appear to need further en- 
couragement. 

While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disad- 
vantage, and that is covering the soil so its condition can- 
not be readily determined by the eye. Some use three 
inches of top-dressing and apply it all at once. Watering 
under such conditions and do justice to the stock is difficult, 
as it must be done by guess or the soil under the dressing 
be carefully examined; it may be dry in places and wet in 
others. By making the manure fine, adding and thoroughly 
mixing an equal amount of loam, will furnish material for 
an excellent dressing-. This can be easily distributed on 
the benches any desired thickness, in accordance with the 
needs of the variety being* treated, or in consistency with 
the strength of the material used. 

If sheep manure is used one inch of this mixture is 
ample for the vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. 
When horse or cow manure is used 1% inches will be about 
right. This should be firmed down to come in close con- 
tact with the soil. In this way the dry spots will become 
apparent on the surface of the beds, which is the only 
object of this process. 

If fine manure is not at hand and that of a coarse na- 
ture is substituted, it should be placed between the rows 
leaving some space next to the plants uncovered so the 
condition of the soil can be detected at a glance. 

Removing Stools— Plants that have been top-dressed 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



3e5 



soon throw up stools or suckers from the groand. These 
should be removed as soon as they appear, care being 
taken not to injure the roots in so doing-. This operation 
should be repeated from time to time as necessity demands. 

Should the plants appear to need stimulants prior to 
the times for top-dressing it will be safe to give them a very 
diluted application of liquid fertilizers. If such fertilizers 
as nitrate of soda, and sulphate of ammonium, or nitrate 
of potash are used it should not be stronger than 1 oz. to 6 
gal. of water. It is true they would stand a stronger 
application without apparent injury, but it must be remem- 
bered that in a few days the top-dressing is to be applied 
and when given a 
thorough watering they 
receive another dose 
which is usually much 
stronger. 

Blind Growth — If 
liquid fertilizers are 
used often, or strong, 
the plants will become 
too gross at this early 
stage of development. 
Such treatment f re- 
quently causes some 
varieties to become 
blind, that is the 
joints do not elon- 
gate but form a com- 
pact mass of foliage at 
the top of the stem and 
literally refuse to pro- 
duce buds. 

At the first indica- '''«• •'■ overfed plants. 

ion of such a condition it will be wise to discontinue 



^*^ 


ij,,a||i^ 




rW 



36 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

feeding, and should this occur early in the season they 
will make side breaks, which will produce buds but these 
will not develop flowers suitable for exhibition purposes. 
See Fig. 9. 

We do not advocate the use of liquid fertilizers or 
overly rich soil in the early stages of growth. Plants that 
are reared upon solutions wholly, do not make as strong 
root growth as those yrown under more natural conditions. 

In the first instance there is no reason why the roots 
should ramble, in as much as the food is constantly pro- 
vided in the available form of solution. In the other case 
the roots naturally reach out in every direction for mineral 
and humus deposits of the soil. 

Plants grown more naturally will develop abundance of 
roots and be in better condition to receive the continual 
application of stimulants later in the season, at a time when 
it is advantageous to concentrate all energies possible to 
the floral embellishment. 

Chemical Fertilizers—in the case of chemical fertilizers 
most of the failures are due to too strong applications. 
Our formula is a highly concentrated compound, consisting 
of four parts phosphate ammonium and six parts of potas- 
sium nitrate (saltpetre). This mixture makes a very com- 
plete fertilizer. 

The formula recommended is perfectly soluble and 
should be used at the rate of 1 oz. to 10 gal. of water for a 
maximum dose. Some will consider this a very weak solu- 
tion, but experience has shown it sufficient and the old 
adage "better be safe than sorry" will be appreciated by 
those who use such concentrated chemicals indiscriminately. 

Once a week is as often as it should be applied to most 
varieties, and never when the plants show signs of dryness. 
A very good plan is to go over the benches and water all 
dry spots before applying. 

It is a great temjDtation to those who have not used 



EXHITUTTON IU.OOMS 37 

chemical fertilizers to overdo. It must be taken into con- 
sideration when feeding solutions of any form they are 
taken up through the roots, and the process of assimilation 
immediately follows. 

Food applied in this way is more available to the plant 
than any other, and herein lies our great danger; we are 
applying a solution which is colorless, odorless and taste- 
less, having every appearance of water. 

Lime— Ijime and iron enter into the construction of the 
plant to a limited degree, but both of these are generally 
found in sufficient quantities in most soils. Lime acts as a 
decomposing agent, liberating ammonium and minerals 
contained in the compost, and has a decided solidifying 
effect upon the plant tissues. It is best applied by dusting 
air-slacked lime lightly over the surface of the bed and 
should be rubbed in with the hands or slightly raked before 
water is applied, otherwise it becomes hard and is of little 
value. 

Iron— Iron may be applied in the form of iron filings 
as a top-dressing or incorporated in the compost, at the 
rate of a pint to the bushel, or by dissolving a half-ounce 
of sulphate of iron (copperas) in five gallons of water and 
apply this solution. It may be added in small quantities 
to chemical or manurial liquids. 

The chrysanthemum, unlike most plants grown under 
glass, has its season of growth and its season of flowering, 
hence our object is to produce good, healthy growth and 
concentrate all energies to the development of the flower. 
Some varieties will stand much more food than others and 
profit thereby. To reach the acme with all varieties the 
grower must be familiar with the special requirements of 
each, knowing when to stop feeding this variety and in- 
crease the application upon another. Ii is but a step from 
success to failure, and so it is in these days of close com- 
petition, the expert wins out in one class and his opponent 



38 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

defeats him in the next; each having broug-ht their exhibits 
to the highest degree of perfection in one case, and a trifle 
faulty in the other. 

Feeding is generally continued until the buds begin to 
burst and show color, and some growers do not discontinue 
until the flowers are half developed. But if such a course 
is followed we would advise diluting the application to 
one-half the strength used when the plants are in an active 
growing state. We must remember that after buds are 
formed, the growth, so far as the plant is concerned, is at 
an end, and whatever we apply in the way of food is im- 
mediately taken to the parts which are now being con- 
structed, namely, the petals. 

At this stage of development the foliage on healthy 
plants will be dark green and glossy, which is due to the 
high living, but is not indicative of excessive feed; unless 
the leaves are curling badly and very brittle. Under such 
conditions caution is advisable. The mastery of this im- 
portant detail can only be gained by the closest observa- 
tion, learning to know the need by appearance of the growth. 

It is no great credit to stage a winning dozen if hund- 
reds have been ruined to secure this "survival of the fittest, ' ' 
it is high average that denotes accomplishment in this art. 

Liquid Manure — Liquid manure was in use years before 
chemical fertilizers were known and in the hands of the in- 
experienced is much safer. There are so many ways of 
formulating liquid manures that it is impossible to give a 
definite rule with assurance of having the best. Those of 
experience know by the color when it is safe to use, but 
such knowledge is difficult to impart to others. 

The following rules are considered safe: % bu. of 
horse or cow manure to 1 bbl. of water. These proportions 
are practically 1 pt. to the gallon, so that those requiring a 
small quantity can make to suit their needs. Sheep 
manure is strong and will require 1% bbls. of water for the 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 39 

same quantity. Hen and pigeon manures are excellent, but 
being- very strong are safest when used in weak solution, 
and should not exceed 1 lb. to 10 gallons. 

In preparing these liquids the manure is generally put 
in a coarse burlap bag, allowing it to soak for two or three 
days. A box or barrel may be filled and apply water, leach 
fashion, but the liquid thus obtained is very strong and will 
need diluting. An old rule is to dilute to the color of weak 
coffee, but this is hardly safe as some of the strong 
manures give light colored liquids. 

As we know little regarding the strength of solutions 
made from material at our disposal, the subject is of more 
or less a matter of guess. Fine blooms may be obtained 
by their use, and by closely observing growth of the plant 
and quality of flowers it will soon be apparent how to use 
for best results. 

Burning and Damping — Experience teaches us that the 
red varieties are more sensitive and first to show this 
defect. Some of the pink and white and occasionally a yel- 
low burn or damp when conditions are favorable. From 
the fact that flowers produced under ordinary cultivation 
are seldom thus affected it is quite apparent that the con- 
centration of food to the petals is the main cause and this 
is augmented by excessive heat and moisture. 

To avoid such conditions put on full air early in the 
day and if possible do all the watering at this time, so that 
the plants and atmosphere may become thoroughly dry 
before night. 

In very damp weather it is sometimes necessary to turn 
on a little heat to keep the air dry and buoyant, even if the 
temperature does not demand it. 

The accumulation of food elements in the petals beyond 
a certain amount are transformed by chemical action of 
heat or dampness into an acid, which dissolves the tissues. 
Why this defect is so apparent in some varieties and not in 



40 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

others we are unable to say, unless lacking- in the quality 
of substance. Get varieties thus inclined into active 
g-rowth, and discontinue feeding- after the buds become half 
developed. They may lack a trifle in size, but be consoled 
by the fact that your flowers are not ruined. Some compe- 
tent gTowers advocate the use of charcoal dust mixed in 
the soil as a preventive. 

Buds and Disbudding — At just what time to save the 
buds is ever a very perplexing- problem to the expert, inas- 
much as climatic conditions have a g-reat deal to do with 
the results. The chang-e of temperature which takes place 
in the autumn months has a tendency to ripen or solidify 
the wood, and is immediately followed by bud formation. 
In the northern hemisphere this change g-enerally takes 
place from the 1st of August to the 1st of September, 
according to location. Those living at a high altitude or 
adjacent to large bodies of water are first to feel the 
change, hence favored with early buds. In the southern 
hemisphere this change takes place during February, and 
for this reason the chrysanthemum flowers in Australia 
during the months of March and April. 

Having set forth these facts that climatic conditions 
are instrumental in bringing about this desired bud state, 
we must all consider our own locality and be governed 
accordingly. Some of our best experts secure buds on 
some varieties as early as the tenth of August, and get 
magnificent blooms therefrom. Doubtless they have solved 
the problem, as far as they are concerned, but there are 
others not so favored. We doubt if those located in the 
middle states where the heat continues through the month 
of August and sometimes into September, would find such 
an early date practical, unless for some of the early 
varieties which naturally set earJy buds. 

In this locality (Southern Michigan) best results are 
from buds taken August 25th, or soon after. As soon as 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



41 



the new varieties are broug-ht under our care we 

record of the 




FIG. 10. CROWN. 



make a 
date of 
disbudding-, selecting- a 
few of the earliest, and 
repeating- this operation 
as far as possible every 
five days,, up to the mid- 
dle of September. When 
the flowers are cut we 
make a record of best 
dates, and the next year 
we are in fair position 
to know just what 
course to follow. These 
records are made on 
tree labels and attached 
to the plant. 

Taking the Buds — 
Taking- the buds is an 
old and obscure term 
which simply means 
selecting the best and 
removing- all others. 
There are two forms of 
buds. Crown and Ter- 
minal. The Crown is 
formed first and if re- 



moved the lateral g-rowths which surround it will make buds 
later. The Terminal bud is the termination of the final 
g-rowth and must be retained as there are no buds to follow. 
They have also been termed as follows: A Crown bud is 
surrounded by vegetative shoots and not by other buds. A 
Terminal bud is surrounded by other buds and not by vege- 
tative shoots. 

On plants that have been planted early the crown buds 



42 



smith's chrysanthemum manual 



often become apparent early in August. See Fig-. 10. If 
these are removed the adjacent vegetative growths push 
forward and will set another bud' which is generally a crown 
and often termed "second crown," late in August or 1st of 
September; much depending upon climatic conditions and 
treatment of the 
plant. If this bud is 
removed the lateral 
growths will push 
forward, and in the 
course of a few weeks 
develop a cluster of 
buds which are term- 
inal or final, as this 
completes the plant's 
growth. See Fig. 11. 
The chief merits 
of the crown buds 
are earliness, size, 
and multiplication of 
petals. Many of the 
forei,gn varieties, 
particularly those 
raised in England, 
are worthless from 
late buds, producing 
flowers with open 
centers, and in many 
cases so much so 
that they could be 
classified as single. 




TERMINAL. 



The tendency of crown buds is towards loss in substance, 
color and foliage. Varieties that produce pink or red 
flowers from terminal buds are inclined to be white or 
bronze from crowns. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



43 



Lono-, bare stems, as shown in Fig. 12, are due to selec- 
tion of early crown buds. This defect can be reduced to 
some extent by firming- the soil until it is very hard, thus 
checking the growth without impairing the quality of the 
flowers. 

It has been suggested that the term "single bud" be 
applied to the one known as crown and "cluster bud" to 
the one known as terminal. We can see no objection to 
using these terms and thus may be able to convey our ideas 
to the amateur more clearly. 

If we decide to save the crown (or single bud,) remove 
all lateral growths, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 10 
and the operation is complete. Crown buds saved early in 
August do not develop into as perfect blooms as those 
taken toward the end of the month. 

After the lateral growths are removed, the energy of the 
plant, will be directed to the bud which begins, to expand. 
Should the buds appear a few days too early remove the 
laterals gradually, day by day, 
completing the operation on the 
best date. In this way the buds 
may be held Jn check without in- 
jury; although would not advise re- 
tarding them longer than eight or 
ten days. 

When terminal (cluster bud) 
is desired, remove the crown, 
allowing one of the lateral growths 
which surround it to remain. In 
the course of a few weeks this 
growth will have attained some 
length and show a cluster of buds. 
When well advanced it will be 
noticed that there is one at the apex 
of the stem and one at each 




FIG. 12. BLOOM 
FROM CROWN. 



44 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

of the leaf axils, as shown in Fig-ure U. 

If the center or apex bud appears perfect, retain it by 
removing- all others with the thumb and fing-er. This 
operation is termed "disbudding-" and should be f'one as 
soon as buds are of sufficient size to do the work without 
injuring- the one retained. Should the center one be im- 
perfect or injured from any cause, save the next best. 

The whole subject of Imds resolves itself into a few 
simple facts which each grower must take into consider- 
ation before taking- any decisive steps, vi/.: climatic con- 
ditions, date of the exhibition, classes in which they are 
to compete, and peculiarities of the varieties under con- 
sideration. 

The operation of disbudding- should be confined to the 
early hours of the day as far as possible, at which time the 
growth is more brittle and can be easily removed with 
thumb and linger. As soon as the buds are formed lateral 
growths from the leaf axils push forward. These should 
be removed as fast as they appear, or the bud will be 
robbed of nourishment which has been previously provided. 

Stopping— Moat of the exhibition g-rowers of England 
give considerable thought to what they term "timing'' the 
buds, that is, having the flowers in perfection at a certain 
date. 'J'o this end they resort to stopping many varieties. 
The object is to force Mowers at an earlier date than they 
would naturally mature if allowed to make a natural break. 
This system has not been practiced in this country to any 
extent, although it may be worthy of consideration as com- 
petition grows keener. 

Record of Operations— \n a work where there are so 
many conditions which have influence upon the result, it is 
very important that each operator keep a fairly complete 
record of quantity and quality of fertilizers when applied, 
height of plants at maturity, date of bud, and general com- 
ments as to merit. Such records are invaluable for future 
reference. 



CHAPTER VIII 

BLOOMS GROWN OUT-OF-DOORS* 

It is not to be presumed that success can be achieved 
in exhibition blooms grown out-of-doors, where very 
cold weather creeps into the lap of Autumn, or severe 
frosts and freezing- weather may be expected during- the 
month of November, therefore, it should be hardly 
attempted in other than the southern states. The best 
location in the g-arden for this purpose should be one 
protected as much as possible from storms, blowing- rains 
and winds, and all the better if a spot 30 to 40 feet square 
can be selected, and a 6-foot close board fence built all 
around. 

It is a mistake to set out plants for this purpose earlier 
than May, and even as late as June, althoug-h many g-row- 
ers are in the habit of commencing- earlier. The results 
they have at blooming- time are g-reattall plants, inclined to 
be spindling' and not of that sturdy, stocky nature which 
invariably produces the better blooms. Besides they have 
worked a month or more at their plants that is wholly 
unnecessary. 

Soil should be of a rather stiff than loamy character, 
liberally fertilized with manure from the cow lot, which will 
make it sufficiently rich and porous for abeg-inning-. Beds 
should be parallel, three feet wide, with two-foot walks 
between and raised six inches, that drainag-e may be had at 
all times. It is well to box in the beds with boards six 

*S. J. Mitchell, Houston, Texas, who has devoced much time and 
study to the chrysanthenum, particularly the subject of exhibiting and 
judging, has kindly supplied the foregoing article. 



46 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

inches wide, and use a few inches of g-ravel for the walks 
between the beds. Two rows of plants 12 inches apart in the 
rows are proper distances for setting out in the beds. Get 
them straight and uniform, and have a few surplus plants 
in case any should die or fail to start off properly, that 
the rank and file may be in no instance broken. 

Do not use too many varieties, and have at least a row 
of each kind, selecting those in preference that have been 
prize takers at the principal flower shows. A plant will 
make three exhibition blooms of as good quality if well 
fertilized as it will one, so after pinching off the end when 
the plant is 12 inches high, allow but three well selected 
limbs to grow, .and no more during the entire life of the 
plant, with the object of one bloom to the limb, or three to 
each plant. The best means of staking and tying is the 
wire fence method. Place stout stakes as tall as the plants 
will grow, eight or ten feet apart in the row, stretch wire, 
fence-fashion, to which the plants are tied and repeat this 
operation as often as required. 

Never, allow the beds to become dry, but water and 
spray the plants each day after sundown, and during August 
sprinkle with bone-meal around the roots of the plants and 
give a, two-inch top-dressing of well rotted manure from the 
cow lot. The idea should be to cause the roots to grow 
laterally rather than downward, hence a great depth in the 
beds is unnecessary. 

Liquid fertilizers made about the strength of weak tea 
from hen, sheep and cow manure is best, and will contain 
all the chemical ingredients that the plants will require. 
This liquid fertilizing should commence about September 
1st, and 10 days later the first setting of flowering buds will 
appear. ^ 

When buds show color stop all fertilizing and give 
soft water. A covering of canvas laid on sloping rafters 
should be given the beds to protect the opening blooms 



BLOOMS (^ROWN OUT-OF-DOORS 47 

from rain or dust, in fact not a drop of water should he 
allowed to come in contact with a hloom at any time, and 
g-reat care should be used in spraying. 

Disbudding" will have to be closely attended to, allowing 
but one (the most promising-) to each limb, and usually the 
terminal bud is chosen for best results. The crown or 
early center bud is best for some varieties, but experience 
will have to be the teacher. Watch for insects closely: 
caterpillars, aphis, mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle 
on the under side of the leaves. Keep on the lookout for 
these enemies, and at the first indication apply tobacco tea 
or strong- soapsuds to prevent their g-etting a strong 
foothold. 

Do not expect blooms grown out-of-doors to be quite as 
nice as those with greenhouse protection, where the 
elements can be more surely controlled. The grower 
should never attempt exhibition blooms of any character if 
he is not prepared to devote time each day to them, and 
under no circumstances allow the slightest procrastination 
or neglect. The plants in time will repay mosthandsomely. 

Another Method— The conditions in the southern 
states are similar to those of Australia, admitting of the 
flowering of chrysanthemums out-of-doors. Thinking 
that the methods employed there may be of 
service to southern growers we give the following 
suggestions by G. Brunning & Sons, Australia. 
It should be taken into consideration that their 
spring is our fall; so that where the month is specified 
we should add six months. This would make September, 
March, or the proper time to begin propagation. And 
again, where it refers to the buds appearing in February, 
we should substitute August. 

Propagatio7i — "Stand the old plants of the previous 
season in some open, airy position to break. From these 
suitable cuttings of about three inches in length are taken 



48 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

in September (March). After removal of some of the lower 
leaves the cuttings are inserted singly in two or three-inch 
pots filled with ^ight, open soil and plunged in sand in a 
close glass frame. The only attention required until they . 
are rooted being an occasional watering or sprinkling and 
ventilation for an hour or two in the morning." 

Potting and Suhfequent Treatment — "When the plants 
are fairly established and hardened off, repot into 5-inch 
pots, using a good open soil and well drained pots. The 
soil need not be too rich as only a moderate groAvth is de- 
sirable at the present stage. Pinch out the leading shoot at 
this time, thus causing the side buds to break and furnish 
the necessary leading growth. The plants are plunged in 
sand in an open sunny position and progress rapidly, so 
that by the second week in November (May) they are ready 
for 7-inch pots, when a little richer soil than previously used 
can be substituted, in which they may remain until the first 
week in January (July). 

Now, instead of removing them into larger pots, break 
a good sized hole in the bottom of the pot in which they 
now are and plunge to the rim in a well drained and 
sheltered bed, placing somegood prepared soil under them, 
(such as a mixture of heavy loam, peat, sand and manure) 
say in the following proportions: 3^ heavy loam, 34 peat, 
X sand, and 3^ horse droppings; adding some crushed 
bones, wood ashes and a little soot. Should heavy loam 
not be procurable clay may be used as a substitute. 

By this method an opportunity is afforded them with 
liquid manure much easier and oftener than could be done 
if planted out in the open ground, and the plants will not 
attain such a height, provided they are firmly potted when 
shifted into the 7-inch pots. 

The only liquid manure we would advocate is made by 
filling a small bag with about 28 lbs. of fresh cow dung, 
adding a little soot (about 4-inch pot full), placing same in 



BLOOMS GROWN OUT-OF-DOORS 



49 



a tub containing" 20 gallons of water, leaving it to stand 
three or four days before using. Dilute % pint of this mix- 
ture to 2 gallons of water. Renew this preparation every 
two or three weeks. This manure may be given from the 
second week in January (July), not oftener than once a 
week till the buds are taken, as over-matiuring has a ten- 
dency toward promoting blind buds and in their later 
stages causing blooms to damp." 




FIG 13. SHELTER OR SNUG HARBOR. 



Shelter or Snug Harbor — At the approach of cool nights 
protection will be necessary where the flowers are to be 
perfected out-of-doors. The plan generally adopted is to 
build a light framework upon which cloth is stretched and 



50 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

fastened to form a roof. For the sides a cloth curtain 
should be provided and fastened in such a manner that it 
may be rolled up from the bottom to admit air on pleasant 
days. If the plants are situated next to a building or tig"ht 
board fence this will answer for one side of the enclosure 
to which the framework may be attached. See Fig-. 1 3. 



CHAPTER IX 

COMMERCIAL FLOWERS • 

In a g-eneral way this subject is quite similar to tlie 
preceding" one. As the flowers are raised for the sole pur- 
pose of placing- upon the market from, a remunerative 
standpoint, the commercial grower has many thing-s to 
consider in bringing- about this desired end. The length of 
time to produce the crop, and sacrificing other stock to 
make ready for planting are important factors, and thus 
the planting is often deferred to a time more opportune. 
Under these conditions the bulk of planting generally 
occurs from June 15th to the latter part of July. 

Commercial varieties are those which possess the 
desired qualifications and characteristics to meet the 
demands of the grower, wholesaler and consumer. 

Those most in demand are of easy culture, growing 
only to a moderate height (not to exceed four feet) and pro- 
duce flowers of pleasing colors. White is probably in 
greatest demand, next comes yellow, theji pink; with a 
decided preference to those which are most pure in their 
respective color tones. Of the two, red is the favorite. 

Form and substance are both given consideration; those 
that do not ship well are soon condemned. 

When the stock is to be handled through the commis- 
sion houses and reshipped to the retailer, the incurved 
varieties generally stand the handling with least injury. 

As a rule the Foreign varieties do not meet the require- 
ments of the commercial grower. It is imperative they be 
planted early, selecting crown bud to secure double flowers. 
If planted in July very few of those from abroad can com- 
pare with American sorts. The reason is obvious. 



52 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



The ForeigTi raisers of seedlings, reserve those which 
produce the largest flowers — irrespective of other character- 
istics, as the exhibition class is most in demand. 

In America the bulk of the plants sold are those having 
commercial merit, hence those interested, select from their 
seedlings those producing the most pleasing colors, best 
foliage with strong, erect stems in preference to size alone. 

The grower who invests largely in foreign sorts, with 
the expectation of superior quality of salable stock, is 




FIG. 14. STOCK PLANTED JUNE 15, AVERAGE HEIGHT 
SIX INCHES. 

prone to disappointment. Inability to plant early, as well 
as failing to give as close attention to details as the exhi- 
bition expert, are the causes of the grower's downfall. 

The general details as given for planting, top-dressing, 
staking and tying for exhibition blooms will be practical 
in this case. 

When the planting takes place in May or early June 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 



53 



nine or ten inches each way is none too far apart. Should 
the planting be deferred till July and later less space will 
be necessary, and may be reduced to six inches each way. 

If the demand is for medium rather than large flowers 
they may be stopped, allowing two or more breaks to grow 
on, each making a flower. 

A plan adopted by some is to pot and plant two cuttings 
together and grow unstopped, each producing one bloom. 
This is very practical for dwarf varieties and also those 
having small fol- 
iage, of which 
Ivory is a good 
example. 

Feeding — 
Liquid manures, 
chemicals, or both 
may be used. The 
first mentioned re- 
quires more labor 
to prepare than 
chemicals, which 
if used in large 
quantities, are the 
cheapest. Five 
dollars worth of 
concen tr at e d 
chemicals will be 
ample for 10,000 
plants and suffi- 
cient manure 
could not be pur- 
chased and pre- 
pared for several 
times this amount. 
Wh a te ver 
material is used 




FIG. 15. BLOOM FROM TERMINAL BUD. 



54 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

for this purpose, the grower must remember the Chrysan- 
themum is a gross feeder and if in a healthy condition will 
revel in abundant and continued applications. 

Buds— In this branch of chrysanthemum culture there 
is little necessity that any g-reat knowledge be acquired re- 
garding the two forms of buds, crown and terminals. 

It matters little whether the bud selected is crown or 
terminal. The important knowledge to acquire is, what 
date gives the best flower. Buds of new varieties, or those 
which have not been tested, should be selected at intervals 
of five days, from Aug. 20th to Sept. 10th. 

Such a course is the only way to become familiar with 
this prominent feature and a record of the results should be 
filed for future reference. 

At flowering time it is easy to determine the best dates, 
and in making these deductions, let purity of color be fully 
considered. The various dates at which the buds of the 
white varieties are selected, will have no material effect 
upon the color. 

Decided variations are noticed in the pinks and yellows 
and the greater the difference in date of selecting the bud, 
the more contrast. The least permanent color is pink and 
it is intensified or reduced by variance in such conditions 
as heat, air, sunlight and date of buds. 

Flowers from early buds are the lightest, and those 
from latest buds, darkest in color, provided other condi- 
tions are equal. 

Yellow is not so easily affected by conditions, although 
some varieties described as yellow will become bronzy on 
late buds. When the flowers are developing, an abundance 
of air, a light shading, to exclude the bright sun and a late 
bud, will give the highest color and best substance. 

Each grower must decide the best date for selecting 
buds, as the conditions he maintains may be somewhat at 
variance with those of others. 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 55 

Should the late buds intensify the color too much, 
giving- the pihks an objectionable purplish hue, and the yel- 
low come bronzy, it would be better to decide upon an earlier 
bud for future crops, providing the other qualities are equal. 

The date of the buds also has effect on fullness and size 
of the flowers. The early buds give the largest flowers, and 
are more double, but the petals are narrow compared with 
those from later buds. 

The flower buying public insist that the stems be of 
good length and well clothed with foliage. All concede 
those produced from terminal buds are of brighter color 
and amply provided for as far as foliage is concerned, also 
much easier managed than the crowns. See Fig. 15. 

The bulk of chrysanthemums planted for commercial 
use do not set early crowns, owing to late planting. Some 
make second crowns late in August, and those planted in 
July give terminals in September and October. 

It is for this reason the mastery of these obscure terms 
are unessential. 

All that the Commercial grower needs to know regard- 
ing this subject may be summed as follows: Buds of Early 
varieties planted during May and June should be selected 
from Aug. IDth to 25th. 

Midseason kinds Aug. 25th to Sept. 10th and the Late 
sorts, Sept. 20th to Oct. 10, according to when the buds are 
apparent and of sufficient size to admit of disbudding. 

The dates given are resultant of many years' records 
and adequate. 

Early — If the desire is to produce early flowers we can- 
not too strongly impress the importance of planting early, 
and it should be the endeavor to have them benched early 
in June at the latest. It is foolish to expect early flowers 
from late planted stock, even though the varieties are 
naturally early. 

Those who grow such varieties as Opah, Carrie, etc.. 



56 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



may take the first bud that appears August 10th and ten 
days thereafter with the expectation of ^ood results and 
have the crop all marketed early in October. 

Late — For late (lowers select varieties which nat- 
urally mature late, and keep them in a g-rowing- state as 
lon^ as possible. To secure late buds ^i ve a liberal amount 
of water and at the approach of cold nig-hts lessen the 
supply of air, this will tend to keep the g-rowth soft. The 
mid-season varieties planted late in July or early Aug-ust 
are usually satisfactory. When this plan is adopted do 
not use very rich soil and withhold liquid fertilizers until 
disbudded, otherwise they are apt to come blind. See blind 
growth, page .'55. Buds secured from October 1st to 15th 

will perfect 
(lowers be- 
tween Thanks- 
giving and 
Christmas. 

Height of 
Plants — It is 
sometimes ad- 
vantageous to 
take crown 
buis rather 
than terminals, 
owing" to 
limited space 
between bench 
and glass. Pig. 
*1() shows Yel- 
low Mrs. J. 
Jones, the first 
plant 42 inches 
high with ter- 
FIG. 1(). COMPARATIVE HEIGHT FROM minal bud, the 

CROWN AND TERMINAL. Other 28 inches. 



1 


■ 


i 


1 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 57 

high and crown bud. The first made a 14-inch growth after 
the crown was removed before setting terminals thirty 
days later. 

To know the height a variety will attain at maturity is 
important, particularly when head room is limited. If 
records have not been kept it is wise to confer with those 
who give these matters constant study and can suggest 
varieties suitable for the purpose. 

When to Cut — At what stage of development the flowers 
should be cut is perplexing to some. The petals have more 
substance when fully matured, and for this reason most 
varieties should not be cut before center petals are 
developed. This gives greater depth, adding to finish of 
blooms, as well as increasing the keeping qualities and are 
thereby in better condition to stand the wear and tear of 
shipping and handling. It is allowable to cut early 
varieties unmatured, if fancy prices result therefrom, other- 
wise it is best to let them stand. Varieties having open 
centers when fully developed may also be cut premature. 
All blooms should be stored in water at least 12 hours 
before sending to the market. 



CIIArTKIl X 



Aphis 'I'lie black and j»'reon aphis infest chrysjintho- 
mums in all sta^i-es of thoir dovc^loprnent and arc vcf.y per- 
sistent in their depredations. The best remedy is to ruinl- 
jjfate with tobacco stems and manufactured products, such 
as aphis punU and tobacco dust. If tol)acco stems ar(< used 
it is nocessai-y to daMijJen them a few liours ahojid so tliey 
will burn slowly and prevent thom from blazinji;-, which ^'"en- 
ei'ates heat and ^-as that oft(m burns the folia'jfe. The 
man\if;ictured articles are generally accompjuiied by full in- 
structions for tlieir use. 

It is impossible to fumi^'^ate j)lants out-of-doors and 
not always convenient to do so under {rhiss. Under such 
conditions tobacco dust may be applied to the parts infested 
after they have been sprayed so it will adhere. Such ap- 
plications are easily removed by spray injjf, but if possible 
should remain two or thi-oe days before removal. We do 
not advocate its use after the ])lants are well advanced, 
particularly during'- damp, cool weather as it is liable to 
gather moisture and disH^»-ure the folia^'-e. Sometimes 
tobacco dust is not at hand and the pi-esence of aplds de- 
mands prompt action. A decoction made ])y leaciiin^r 
tobacco stems or placing*- tliem in a vessel and covering 
with hot water for a few hours will have the desired ell'ect, 
and is best applied by some form of a spray pump. There 
are several forms of tobacco extracts that may be used in 
the same way, all of which are provided with complete 
directions. 

Red Spider ~'Vh<j) most dillicult insect we have tocontend 
with under glass is the red spider, wliich is very minute, 



INSKCTS { f)!) 

scarcely discernible by the nuked eye, but if allowed to ^o 
unchecked will become very numerous, forming a fine web 
about the leaves and buds. It is generally first detected 
on the underside of the leaves where tliey are not dislodged 
by spraying. Dry, hot air is most congenial to their W(!l- 
fare and alter these conditions have been brouglit about by 
turning on heat, houses have ))een ruined which were 
apparently clean and gave great promise early in the season. 
The best remedy known is watei*, which should be 
applied in the form of spray with as much force as possible 
to destroy the web and dislodge them. It is imporiant that 
it be applied to the under as well as the upper side of the 
foliage. Thorough and repeated applications are the only 
source of relief. Tobacco smoke has little or no effect as 
far as can be ascertained. 

Thrips also infest the chrysanthemums occasionally 
and thrive under the same conditions as red spiders, 
although not so much dreaded. Where the hose is used 
freely and plants well sprayed they are easily exterminated. 
Mealy Bug— Ah commonly known it is a white, mealy, 
downy looking insect. Generally it does not infest 
chrysanthemums to any extent, but we have seen cases 
where they were more or less troublesome. If not vei-y 
numerous they may be hand-picked. When this is imprac- 
tical, alcohol diluted one-half and af)|)lied with a binish or 
atomizer will destroy them without injuring the foliage. 

Orasshoppers are sometimes troublesome devouring the 
tender leaves and stems, and the best remedy is hand- 
picking which should be done as early in the morning as 
convenient, when they are more docile and easily caught. 
Should they be very abundant an application of I'aris 
Green may be given, ('are should be taken not to api)ly 
too freely or it will burn the foliage. 

A safe rule is 1 part Paris Gi-een to 150 parts air 
slacked lime which should be thoroughly mixed. 



60 



smith's chrysanthemum manual 




FIG. L7. TARNISHED 
PLANT BUG. 



Tarnished Plant Bug is a great hindrance and often 

causes total failure to plants grown in the open border. 

See Fig-. 17. They are brought into the greenhouse on 

various plants, like carnations 

and geraniums, and immediately 

find a favorable feeding ground 

upon the chrysanthemum. This 

destructive bug procures its food 

by thrusting its proboscis into 

the tender growths, extracting 

the sap, thus causing the tips to 

flag which may be considered 

^ \ ^^^y ^ evidence of their presence. In 

^^ I '^^ \ the young state they are of a 

yellowish green color and seem 

to confine their depredations to 

the apex of the stem and soon 

destroy the center. 

As soon as the lateral growths push forward they take 

to these, and thus the operation is repeated until the plant 

often becomes a mass of stunted growth. See Fig. 18. 

The adults are yellowish brown, about 3-16 of an inch 
in length, and will continue their destructive work upon 
any part of the plant or flower that is soft and abundant 
with sap. They puncture with such violence as to distort 
the growth and ruin promising buds, and later on deface 
the petals of expanding flowers. The pest is known in 
nearly all parts of the United States, being more or less 
destructive to many other plants, such as asters, goldenrod 
and sunflowers, and they are very partial to carnation 
blooms. 

Hand-picking is the best remedy we have found, and 
whoever attempts to catch any of these little intruders must 
be alert indeed. The adults will fly at the first intimation 



INSECTS 



fJl 



of your presence and the young" either hide under the leaves 
or drop to the lower part of the plant. 

Corythuca Gostypi is about the size of a full grown 
aphis, color, a dirty gray, having- a woolly appearance. It 
is more or less troublesome throug-hout the southern states, 
but is little known in the north, although it has been re- 




FIG. 18. DEPREDATIONS OP THE TARNISHED PLANT BUG. 
BRANCH SHOWING MASS OF BLIND GROWTH. 

ported in many localities. Its habit is similar to the red 
spider feeding* upon the under side of the foliage. It is 
reported as being- very destructive, and the affected leaves 
curl and die. When disturbed they fly to the ground and 
immediately return to the plants by climbing- up the stems 
and are soon re-established. The best remedy is weak 
kerosene emulsion, and this should be applied to the under 
side of the leaves to be most effective. 



62 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Oruh Worm—ThQ common white grub so prevalent in 
meadows is often carted into the house with the soil. The 
first indication of their presence is, the plant will beg-in to 
wilt and eventually die. They harbor in the soil and feed 
upon the roots and should be hunted out and killed. 

Cut Worm— This dark-colored worm, which sometimes 
attains two inches in length, burrows in the ground and at 
nig-ht feeds upon the foliage of the plant, generally going 
to the tender leaves at the top. Owing to their nocternal 
habits they are easier caught at night. 

Lady Bird (Coccinella.)— This little beetle varies in 
size and color, being from 3^ to % of an inch in length in 
the adult form and nearly round. Commonly red with 
black spots, varying in size and number, and may be black 
with red spots, or unspotted red or black, also more or less 
marked with yellow. 

In the larvae state they are % inch long, color, bluish- 
gray, more or less marked with yellow and black spots. 
At a certain stage of development they fasten themselves to 
the under side of the leaves and in a day or so shed their 
larvae coat and are thus transformed to the winged or 
mature state. In all stages they feed upon the aphis but 
are more active and greedy when young. They are also 
known in this country as lady bug and should never be 
molested, as their persistent hostility to the aphis is very 
beneficial. 

Goldeneye, also known as lace-wing and lice-lion, is 
another friendly insect feeding upon the aphis. In the young 
state they cover themselves with the skins of their victims. 
The larvae is quite similar to that of the lady bird. In the 
mature form they somewhat resemble the katydid but have 
no hoppers. The wings are large in proportion to the 
body, thin and transparent, marked with a net- work of fine 
dark lines. When full grown they are an inch or more in 
length. 



INSECTS G:{ 

Chrysanthemum Fly— 'rh\s insect closely resembles our 
honey-bee, althoug-h a trifle larg-er. When on the win^' it 
makes a similar humming- sound but can be handled with 
impunity, as it cannot sting-. It makes its appearance with 
the first chrysanthemum flowers and disappears at the 
close of the flowering- season. 

It cannot be considered a foe or friend, its sole object 
being to g-ather bee-bread from the more single flowers. It 
has been used for the purpose of raising seed, being an ex- 
cellent agent in fertilizing flowers, as it continually roams 
from one flower to another. Seed thus obtained cannot be 
considered very valuable, inasmuch as they never visit 
flowers that are fully double and the results thus obtained 
would be degenerative rather than progressive. 



CHAPTER XI 



DISEASES 



Rust is not so prevalent in this country as in England 
from the fact our atmosphere is dryer. It makes itself ap- 
parent with the approach of cool nig-hts and is g-enerally 
aug-mented by excessive moisture. 

H. J. Jones, Lewisham, England, describes this fun- 
gus in the following comprehensive manner. "It appears 
the fungus originates in the tissue of the leaf, and is mostly 
confined to the under side, although there are many in- 
stances in which pustules appear on the upper surface of 
the leaf. A pustule, simply described, is a little pimple 
which bursts, exposing a dark brown dusi, at maturity. 
This brown dust is none other than liberated spores which 
drop out of the pustule, and fall on, or come into contact 
with the crysanthemum foliage, and when this is in a moist 
condition it quickly grows and very speedily developes a 
germ tube which very soon finds its way into the tissue of 
the leaf, and after a time repeats itself." 

"There are many remedies given, such as bordeaux 
mixture, and ammonical solution, as well as other prepared 
compounds. These, doubtless, are more or less effective, 
but we can hardly expect a permanent cure from their use 
unless we maintain conditions that are unfavorable to the 
development of new spores.'' 

A few years ago the carnation rust which grows and 
reproduces itself in the same manner, and as far as we 
know is identical, caused great anxiety among carnation- 
ists, who feared its prevalence would gain such a foothold 
as to be ruinous. Experience has taught them to remove 
the cause or conditions under which it develops rapidly. 



DlSKASf:S 05 

To this end they house the plants early, spray" only on 
brii>-ht morning-s and maintain a dry and buoyant atmos- 
phere as far as possible. 

If chrysanthemum o-rowers will take the same precau- 
tions there is little fear of the disease becoming wide-spread, 
or doing- great damage. Over-crowding- the plants so that 
the foliage does not dry off quickly, indiscriminate spray- 
ing, particularly when applied late in the day in the 
autumn months, and lack of air should be strongly guarded 
against. 

In aggravated cases it would be well to try the follow- 
ing* remedy, given by W. Wells. Redhill, l^]ngland, in his 
new work just issued, "'The Culture of the Chrysanthemum." 

"Spray every cutting or plant once a fortnig-ht— from 
the day the cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut 
down with about a wineglass full of paraltine (kerosene) 
mixed with one gallon of water, using- an Abol syringe with 
the spray nozzle. If the solution can be kept thoroughly 
mixed, double the strength may be employed. Then from 
July 1st spray the under part of the foliage with a dressing 
compost of the following ingredients: half-pound each of 
sulphur, soft soap, soot, and lime. The lot should be 
boiled for half an hour in one gallon of water; a half-pint 
of parafiine should then be added and the mixture allowed 
to simmer for a minute or so, care being taken to prevent 
it from boiling over. The dressing should be allowed to 
stand until it gets clear, and may be kept in bottles. A 
quarter of a pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of 
water. If, however, the fungus is very bad and has 
obtained a hold on the plant, double the strength can be 
used without injuring the chrysanthemum. ' ' 

Zea/ aS'po^— With this fungus (Septoria Chrysanthemi 
E and D) the spore bearing cavities are imbedded in the 
leaf tissue, and as they mature the spores ooze out of these 
cavities and thus spread the disease. They may be killed 



66 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

by applying Bordeaux mixture or some similar fungicide. 
Another fungus disease which often attacks the chrysan- 
themum is known as Clyndrosporium Chrysanthemi. It is 
a more rapid grower than the Septoria and the plants 
affected by it are often so stricken down as to be unable to 
make any blooms. 

The leaves of the affected plants begin to roll up, the 
outer edges turning under and this condition becomes so 
apparent that even the inexperienced grower will know at a 
glance that something is wrong. Some varieties seem to be 
strong enough to withstand this fungus, hence in nearly 
every case where the writer has known its presence it has 
confined itself to certain varieties and very often those 
growing adjacent were not affected in the least. 

The best remedies are Bordeaux and ammonium 
mixtures. 

The foregoing is an abridged article on leaf spot by 
Prof. Byron D. Halstead appearing in American Chrysan- 
themum Annual. 

Bordeaux Mixture. 

Copper sulphate 6 pounds 

Quicklime 4 pounds 

Water 40 gallons 

Dissolve the copper sulphate by putting it in a bag of 
coarse cloth and hanging this in a vessel holding at least 
four gallons, so that it is just covered by the water. Use 
an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal 
amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough water 
to make 40 gallons. It is then ready for immediate use. 
Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. 

Copper carbonate 1 oz. 

Ammonia enough to dissolve the copper 

Water __9 gallons 

The copper carbonate is best dissolved in large bottles 

where it will keep indefinitely, and it should be diluted with 

water as required. 



DISEASES 67 

Mildew — A common name applied to several forms of 
microscopic fungi. The one affecting- the chrysanthemum 
is white and forms a coat over the leaves and tender shoots 
and is caused by a sudden check of some nature. 

Sulphur in some form is the accepted remedy, being 
applied as dust directly to the leaves, or by mixing equal 
parts of sulphur and air slacked lime, adding water until 
the consistency of paste and painting the steam pipes. The 
formula given by W. Wells for rust is recommended for 
mildew and doubtless is effective. 



CHAPTER XU 

SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 

Before entering the details of this subject let us con- 
sider some of the natural conditions which have more or 
less influence upon cui results. Dame nature says the 
chrysanthemum shall l>e single and reproduce itself from 
seed, so in producing these marvelous flowers with almost 
countless petals we are working in direct opposition to her 
laws. 

In some of our improved varieties we are prevented 
from making further improvements owing to the pistils or 
styles being abortive: and in others the staminate florets 
provide little or no pollen. 

In cross-fertilization the operator's desire is to im- 
prove the chief characteristics, such as color, size, form 
and fullness. It is beyond all human power to obtain 
exact results in uniting or mixing the colors of petals. 
Pollen of a white flower applied to a red may give red, 
white, or any intermediate shades which would be many 
varieties of pink. The union of red and yellow gives simi- 
lar results, producing red, yellow, and all the intermediate 
shades of brown and tan. We have more assurance when 
varieties of the same colors atre crossed. Improvements in 
colors can only be attained by bearing in mind the laws of 
nature in making these unions. 

The chrysanthemum has a great tendency to revert to 
its antecedents. Hence it is we get many strangers when 
two of the same color are crossed. The variety, Mrs. J J. 
Glessner, yellow, came from Edward Hatch and Mrs. J. 
Joues, both white or nearly so. This seedling partook of 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 69 

the parentage of Ed. Hatch which was Gloriosum, yellow, 
and Ada Spaulding-, pink. 

Form, size and fullness are improved only by careful 
consideration of these qualifications in varieties at our dis- 
posal. We are more certain of advancement in the style of 
o-rowth, securing- those which are dwarf and sturdy by con- 
fining- our operations to such as possess these qualities. 

Larg-e and small foliag-e can be produced by using- 
those having- these peculiarities. 

What g-overns the potency of the pistillate and stami- 
nate parent we cannot determine. We are dealing- with 
minute affairs. The stig-ma may scarcely have reached 
maturity when the pollen is applied, or the pollen may be 
passed its prime with the stigma at the height of develop- 
ment. These varied conditions may have their influence 
upon establishing the character of the seedling. 

In selecting varieties for this work the two classes for 
consideration are those for exhibition and commercial use. 
In the former, size is the most important factor if the other 
qualifications are up to the average. The commercial 
grower requires staple colors, and the purer the color the 
better. Size, form, fullness and style of growth are im- 
portant and should be taken into consideration. 

Seed Plants — Our experience leads us to believe that 
single stem plants in 4-inch pots grown naturally without 
an abundance of nourishment are best suited for this pur- 
pose. They produce less ray florets, hence pollen is easier 
to gather. The styles in flowers thus treated seem to be in 
better condition, or at least more normal and produce seed 
more freely. We have arrived at these deductions by en- 
deavoring to procure seed from those grown for exhibitions 
and in nearly every case our efforts have been fruitless. 

Plants intended for seed raising should be staged in a 
dry, light house, and excessive moisture at the roots or in 
atmosphere should be avoided. 



70 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



Fertilizing — The operation begins when the flowers 
are half open bj' cutting- the petals off close to the base with 

a pair of scissors, until 
the styles are exposed. 
See Fig-. 19. 

Fig-. 20 represents an 
enlarg-ed ray and disc 
florets. No. I. is a petal 
which furnishes the color. 
This is provided with a 
style or pistil and when in 
condition or fully expand- 
ed is in proper condition 
to receive the pollen which 
is applied to the upper 
surface, (B) known as the 
stig-ma. The disc floret 
(II.) also has a style, but 
is provided with stamens, 
(C) which furnish the pol- 
len. These should be re- 
moved from the seed plant 
with the points of scissors 
to prevent self-fertiliza- 
tion. 

After the flower head 
has been trimmed select 
the desired flower for pol- 
len. Push aside the ray 
florets or petals until the 
d sc florets are in view. 
Collect the dust-like pollen 
on a camel's hair pencil 
or toothpick and apply to 
previously prepared. This 




FIG. 



19. FLOWER TRIMMED READY 
FOR FERTILIZATION. 



the stigmas of the flowers 
completes the operation. 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 



71 



How fertilization takes place is fully described by Prof. 
Bentley in his Manual of Botany: 

"When the pollen falls upon the stigma its intine pro- 
trudes throug'h one or more pores of the extine in the form 
of a delicate tube which penetrates throug-h the cells of the 
stigma, by the viscid secretions of which it is nourished. 
These pollen tubes continue to elongate by growth and pass 
down the conducting tissue of the canal of the style, and 




FIG. 20. I. PISTILLATE FLORET. II. STAMINATE FLORET. 

(A) Style— (B) Stigma— (C) Stanien,s-(D) Ovary- (E) Seed. 

thus reach the ovary where the seed is formed." 

If a toothpick is used never use it for more than one 
kind of pollen. By allowing the camel's hair pencil to 
stand in an open mouth vial of alcohol a few minutes after 
using, it may when dry be used upon another variety with- 
out fear of the former operation affecting the present. 

Pollenizing should be done on bright, sunny days as far 
as possible. In wet weather a dry, warm house can be 



72 - SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

utilized and the work continued each day, provided 
sufficient pollen is at hand. On brig-ht days pollen is g-en- 
erally very abundant, and may be collected, stored in vials 
and labeled ready for use. If kept perfectly dry this pollen 
will retain its vitality throughout the chrysanthemum 
season. 

After fertilization give the plants only sufficient water to 
keep them from wilting. Always keep a record of the work, 
showing the parents of the seedlings. It will afford pleas- 
ure to know how a meritorious variety was produced, and 
may suggest possibilities along other lines. 

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Those fertilized early 
in the season give the greatest number of seeds, doubtless 
due to more favorable weather at that time. Do not antici- 
pate super-abundance of seed. The crosses which give but 
few seeds generally produce the best seedlings. Hand 
pollenized seeds are of more value than those naturally 
fertilized. It at least seems rational to expect more from 
seed secured by the union of our best kinds than from that 
produced by the wind without intent, or the bee whose only 
object is to secure his daily sustenance. If this be true, our 
results depend upon the degree of intelligence employed in 
the selection of parents, and thoroughness with which every 
detail is attended. 

Seedlings — The seeds should be sown in light soil as 
soon as they are ripe, using pots, pans or shallow boxes. 
They should be covered lightly and kept in a temperature 
of about 60 degrees, until they have germinated. If kept 
in so high a temperature the seedlings are quite apt to 
damp off, and at the first indication of such a condition 
move to a more airy place. As soon as they have made 
their second pair of characteristic leaves, prick off into 
shallow boxes, planting about an inch apart. When show- 
ing sig'ns of crowding they should be potted separately and 



SEKDLINGS AND SPORTS 73 

repotted as often as necessary or planted into the bench, 
same as standard varieties. 

They flower the first year from seed and there is nothinc*- 
more interesting- than to look over a larg-e lot of seedlino-s 
and note the diversity of color and form. After the planted 
seedling's are established we nip out the top and allow two 
breaks to come up and flower, and as far as possible select 
a crown or early bud on one of these, and terminal or late 
bud upon the other; thus we gain some knowledge the first 
year as to which bud produces the best flower. Those that 
are considered desirable may be saved and given further 
trial. 

Sports— The word "sport" in connection with chrysan- 
themums refers to varieties which originate by bud varia- 
tions and are termed "sports." Occasionally a variety will 
sport the first or second year after its origin from seed, but 
generally it does not take place until several years have 
elapsed, and then often simultaneously in remote localities. 
This has' occurred in this country, the most marked case 
being that of Mrs. J. Jones, sporting to yellow. As a rule most 
of the whites sport to yellow, and pinks to white, although 
Viviand'Moral gave us a sport variety, Chas. Davis, which 
is bronze, and has also sported to white in the variety Mrs. 
Ritson. Louis Boehmer, magenta pink, sported to white 
and named L'Enfant des deaux Mondes. This variety 
sported under French cultivation to yellow and is known 
as Leocadie Gentils. Louis Boehmer, the original variety, 
has given us several other sport varieties, such as Wm. 
Falconer, light pink: Mrs. C. B. Freeman, bronzy yellow, 
and Beauty of Truro, bronzy cerise. It is worthy to note 
that many varieties have changed their color in this way 
many times, while others that are now very old have never 
shown any inclination to sport. The yellow varieties seem 
less inclined to sport than other colors, po'ssibly this is 
due to the fact that yellow is the original color of chrysan- 
themums. 



74 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Philadelphia, a light yellow, g-ave a sport several 
shades darker, and is known as Pennsylvania. It need not 
surprise anyone cultivating- chrysanthemums to notice a 
plant having- flowers of two distinct colors. Sometimes the 
sport flowers will be one-half the orig-inal color, and ag-ain 
possibly on the same plant another bloom will be the new 
color entire. 

It has been reported that flowers sometimes sport in 
form, that is, g-ive a flower of entirely different form from 
that orig-inally possessed, such as an incurved flower sport- 
ing to a reflexed form. Such cases are at least few and far 
between, in fact we are inclined to disbelieve that such 
changes have really taken place. Cultural conditions often 
change the form of flowers materially, also buds selected, 
and doubtless some of the cases reported were simply due 
to these causes. 

To perpetuate the new color of the plant that has sport- 
ed the method generally followed is to cut out the leaf on 
the flowering wood with a heel or portion of stem and place 
these under a bell glass or closed case to induce them to 
make root after which they send forth new growth. These 
are planted the next season and if any possess the original 
color they are discarded and those of the new color saved. 
Generally in the course of two or three seasons it is safe to 
consider the new variety established and color fixed, as it 
is termed. 



CHAPTER XIII 

PREPARING EXHIBITS 

Some time previous to the flowering- season suitable 
boxes should be made ready. Also material necessary for 
packing- and staging-, such as cleats, excelsior, paper for 
wrapping- and lining- cases, labels for plants and cut blooms, 
and exhibitors' cards. This will save some anxiety at the 
last when so many details require constant attention. 

Plants — All pots should be wa&hed clean before pack- 
ing- and each plant securely staked and tied, thoroughly 
watered, and plainly labeled. Where specimens and stan- 
dards are to be exhibited, the intervening spaces between 
the blooms should be filled with crumpled tissue paper to 
prevent shifting- and rubbing ag-ainst each other. With a 
strong- cord draw the plant tog-ether as close as possible 
without injury. 

If they are to be transported a short distance and the 
weather is favorable they may be taken as they are. For 
long- shipments that will be six or more hours in transit, 
provide each plant with a frame work, around which paper 
can be wrapped to keep the blooms clean. Should there be 
danger of freezing-, cotton wadding or several thicknesses 
of paper will be necessary. 

Single stemmed plants are usually shipped in boxes the 
height of the pots, with a post in each corner (extending a 
little above the plants) to which strips are nailed horizon- 
tally to form a rigid framework. The spaces between the 
pots are tucked wdth excelsior and the flowers wrapped with 
tissue/. The frame is then covered with paper or other 
material as necessity demands. 

Cut Floivers —Blooms that are likely to be too far 



76 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

advanced for the exhibition should be cut and stored in 
water in a cool cellar with some lig-ht, (in total darkness 
the f oliag-e soon turns yellow, ) cutting off a small portion 
of the stem and giving- fresh water every three days. In 
this way they may be kept two or three weeks in a very 
presentable condition. 

All blooms should be cut and stored in water at least 12 
hours before packing and longer if possible. This allows 
them to take up sufHcient water to harden the foliage and 
petals. In brighter weather it is best to do the cutting early 
in the day while they are firm. 

The most suitable sized box for packing depends upon 
the size of the blooms, number to be packed, and required 
length of stems when staged. They must be of sufficient 
depth so that the cover when nailed does not crush the 
blooms. When large exhibits are to be handled, boxes 6 
feet long, 2 feet wide, and 10 to 12 inches deep or there- 
abouts are the most serviceable. 

The box is first lined with paper to exclude air, and if 
cold, enough to protect from frost. The next step is to con- 
sult the schedule, sorting out each entry so they may be 
packed by themselves. If no one accompanies them to 
attend to the staging, each class should be divided with a 
sheet of paper and plainly marked, giving class number so 
that the person in charge will know each entry at a glance. 

Each bloom should be labeled with a white card plainly 
written. A very suitable size for this purpose is 1% by 4 
inches, which should be tied to the stem near the bloom. A 
few extra blooms should be added in case some are injured 
in transit and the packer will have to use his judgment as 
to how many are required, by their present condition and 
apparent substance. Where the entries require a large 
number of blooms it is advisable to label them, even though 
they are to be accompanied with someone who is conver- 
sant with unpacking and staging, as it saves much time 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 77 

and confusion at the last moment when it is urgent that a)l 
exhibits be in position at the allotted hour. 

Make rolls of excelsior wrapped with paper 2% or 3 
inches in diameter, and as long- as the box is wide. Sheets 
of tissue paper large enough to cover the blooms should be 
cut on one side to the center, and having the blooms near 
at hand all is ready. It requires two persons to pack to 
advantage, one placing the blooms in the box and attend- 
ing to cleating, and a helper tying on the labels and hold- 
ing the blooms while being wra'pped. Beginning at one 
end of the box place a roll of excelsior 6 or 8 inches from 
the end. The helper takes a bloom and holding it head 
down the packer slides the cut tissue paper around the 
stem, draws the edges downward giving the corners a few 
turns with the thumb and finger to keep in position. 

It is difficult to say how tight the blooms should be 
wrapped, much depends upon their form and condition. 
Those of the reflexed type, like Viviand Morel and Yana- 
riva, may be rolled moderately close without injury, while 
such varieties as Mrs. H. Robinson and Col. D. Appleton, 
should be given a little more freedom. After a little ex- 
perience the packer will determine at a glance how tight 
they should be rolled. 

It is then placed in the box allowing the neck of the 
flower to rest on the roll of excelsior, the object being to 
prevent outer petals being bruised. It is wise to select the 
largest blooms and those having the longest stems for the 
end of the box. This operation is repeated until the first 
row across the box is completed and the packing is con- 
tinued in the same manner until the third row is finished, 
which is fastened secure by a wooden cleat, pressing the 
stems down firm enough so they cannot shift. The cleats 
should be placed far enough from the blooms so that the 
next tier will not rest upon them and thus be injured. 

If the weather is warm or the exhibit to be transported 



78 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

a long- distance sprinkle the foliag-e well and cover with a 
few thicknesses of newspapers that have previously been sat- 
urated with water. The aim is to keep the foliage wet and 
the blooms dry. Continue the packing- until the last row 
of blooms covers about one-third of the box and then begin 
in the same manner at the other end. 

Foreign Shipments — Flowers grown in this country 
have been exhibited in England and vice versa. The direc- 
tions given for packing are practical in such cases, but 
would suggest the stems being cut not to exceed 12 inc hes 
in length, and use Kift's Rubber Capped Flower Tube for 
each specimen. These tubes are glass vials with a tight 
fitting rubber cap which confines the water to the tube and 
thus the supply is sufficient to keep them fresh. 

Another method is sometimes employed in which the 
flowers are packed so they stand upright, a very good sys- 
tem where the exhibit is not very large, or the distance to 
be shipped very long. The size commonly used is 3 by 4 
feet and 2 ft. 6 inches in depth, but should the schedules 
require longer stems a deeper box will be necessary. These 
boxes are provided with cleats, one a few inches from the 
bottom and the other placed so as to come directly under 
the bloom. In packing put two cleats in position at one 
end of the box and after the blooms have been wrapped set 
them in position and tie securely, top and bottom. 

As soon as one row is completed another set of cleats 
are adjusted and the work continued. The ends of the 
stems may be wrapped with sphagnum moss or inserted 
in rubber capped tubes filled with water to keep the 
foliage from wilting. Packed in this manner the foliage 
dries out more than when laid flat in the box owing to the 
large amount of air space, hence the necessity of providing 
moisture at the end of the stem to prevent flagging. These 
boxes are generally constructed with a hinge cover, also 
one side or end hinged from the middle so that the upper 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 79 

portion may be let down, making it more convenient in 
packing- and unpacking. 

Dressing Floivers —This is resorted to somewhat by 
foreign exhibitors, but little practiced in this country. In 
fact most schedules prohibit dressing. The Incurved sec- 
tion requires more attention than the Japanese when this 
operation is resorted to. The method is simply to remove 
short or deformed petals and arrange perfect ones to 
occupy their places, also to separate those which have 
grown one into the other to form a regular rounded flower 
when finished. Sometimes semi-incurved Japanese are 
dressed to give them a reflexed appearance. As far as 
known about the only dressing done in this country is the 
removal of deformed petals, which are likely to occur in 
any of the types. Very often strap-petals will appear in 
the cushion of the Anemone varieties and thus detract from 
their appearance, and should be removed with a pair of 
tweezers. 



CHAPTER XIV 

STAGING 

Staging PlanU -In arranging- plants for exhibition 
much depends upon the schedule which should be thorough- 
ly digested to conform with the rules and regulations. 
Then consider space allotted and if next the wall to be 
viewed from one side only, the tallest plants should be put 
in the background and others graduated to the shortest in 
front. 

If the exhibit contains more than one color this should 
be considered and arranged for best effect. Groups for the 
center of the hall are arranged on the same plan, but such 
exhibits are viewed from all sides and will require greater 
effort to bring out uniformity. 

In France the space allotted to plants is covered with 
light soil, into which the pots are plunged and the earth 
covered with green sod. In this way they have the appear- 
ance of being permanently planted, which adds greatly to 
the attractiveness of the exhibit. 

Staging J5Zootos— Collections of cut blooms are gener- 
ally shown one in a vase, arranged on tables usually at the 
side of the hall so there is but one congregational side. 
Such tables will accommodate three rows in width and after 
the vases or glasses are so placed the blooms are 
arranged so the middle row will be slightly elevated above 
the first and the back row above the second. The object is 
to have each bloom show distinctly both its size and form. 
The largest ones should be placed in the back row and the 
smallest in front. When placed in this manner they appear 
to be nearly all of a size. The light and dark colors should 
be alternated as much as possible for the best effect. 



STAGING 81 

If there are restrictions as to length of stems this raus 
be considered at the beginning, but if left to the discretion 
of the exhibitor ten or twelve inches for the first row will be 
about right, and three to six inches longer for each of the 
successive rows according to the depth of the bloom. See 
Fig. 21. 

The foregoing rule is practical where the tables are of 
regulation height, about 2 ft. 7 in., but if only a foot or so 




FIG. 21. A COLLECTION PROPERLY STAGED. 

from the floor it will hardly be necessary to make any dis- 
tinction as to length of stems, inasmuch as the exhibit will 
be viewed from above. When the tables are built terraAe- 
f ashion the stems may be nearly or quite the same length. 

Boards -The board system so popular in England for 
staging collections is seldom used or little known to Ameri- 
can exhibitors. It consists of a board 18x24 inches nailed 
to end pieces so that the front will be three and the back 



82 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

six inches above the table and are painted green. Holes 
are bored to accommodate twelve blooms, three rows front 
to back. The petals of each bloom are supported by a fun- 
nel-shaped cup terminating" with a tube into which the stem 
is inserted and when properly adjusted a wedge is crowded 
between tube and stem to hold securely. The stem and cup 
tube are passed through the hole in the board into a tube 
containing water. 

At the Kansas City show of 1902, mossed banks were 
substituted for the typical boards. These were constructed 
by nailing 6-inch boards running lengthways of tables to 
scantling. The boards were placed far enough apart to 
admit the neck of a bottle and the back elevated to give a 
slope of about 3 inches to the foot. Bottles were placed so 
the top of the necks were even with the boards, at the 
proper distance apart to receive the blooms and the whole 
framework was then covered with green moss. This system 
is very practical where large collections are to be staged 
and has been adopted by many of the managements of the 
leading flower shows. This system enables us to display a 
greater number of varieties, including those with weak 
stems, which cannot be staged in vases to advantage. 

Fases— Classes calling for more than one bloom of a 
kind are generally staged together and may vary in num- 
ber up to 100. When three to six are required, 18 to 24 
inches are considered sufficient length of stem; twenty-five 
to fifty, 3 to 4 feet, and vases of one hundred will need 5 
feet or more for those occupying the center. In arranging 
vases of twenty-five or more the aim is to have each bloom 
show distinctly and the general appearance as symmetrical 
as possible. 

When the schedule states "arranged for effect," colors 
which harmonize are considered best, such as white and 
pink, or yellow, bronze and red. Sometimes a few of the 
Anemone section may be used to advantage in such classes 
giving diversity in form. 



CHAPTER XV 

EXHIBITIONS 

The * Management— ThQ annual exhibition requires 
mental and physical as well as financial support and is 
generally more successful when backed by a strong organi- 
zation, Very few exhibitions are certain of being success- 
ful year after year, particularly from a financial stand- 
point. Unfavorable weather is likely to impair the atten- 
dance and some other local attraction may divert the public. 

Such organizations should appoint committees to han- 
dle certain parts of the work; such as arranging and 
mailing a schedule, music, advertising, and as the date of 
the show draws near supplement committees for decorating 
the hall, etc. The preliminary, or if possible complete 
schedule, giving the principal classes, should be mailed in 
January. 

Make them definite, for example: best, twenty-four 
blooms white, three varieties, stems not less than 36 inches, 
shown in one vase. Best twenty-five plants, five varieties, 
grown to single stem and bloom in five-inch pots, not ex- 
ceeding 30 inches above pots. When so arranged the 
manager is not hampered with questions. The exhibitor 
knows just what is required, and the judge has but one 
thing to consider, — quality. 

The larger the premium the stronger the competition. 
Big prizes and honor of winning same are incentives which 
are far-reaching and should be duly considered for sake of 
display. This course is a greater necessity in localities 
remote from the center of chrysanthemum cultivation, 
which is probably between Cleveland and Pittsburg. 

If a final or complete premium list is issued it should 



84 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

appear a few weeks before the date of the show and may be 
arranged to serve the purpose of a program and thus cur- 
tail expense. The advertising is an important feature and 
the press should be furnished with short items of interest 
to the public that will also refer directly to the exhibition. 
If possible they should be supplied with photographs of 
intended exhibits and descriptions of same. A month prior 
to the date posters and other forms of advertising will be 
necessary. 

It is of great importance to have a competent secretary, 
as much depends upon accurate records of entries, pre- 
miums, etc. W. N. Rudd, Mt. Greenwood, 111., in his able 
article, "The Management of the Exhibition, " read before 
the American Carnation Society, suggests the following 
for the accounting department: ''The writer prefers the 
De La Mare system of exhibition accounting, as being 
simple, speedy and accurate. It consists of an exhibitor's 
book, a class book, a judge's book, entry cards and en- 
velopes for them, a set of gummed labels of different colors, 
'first premium;' 'second premium, ' etc. , to be attached to 
entry cards by the judges as they complete each class." 

The person best suited to act as superintendent or man- 
ager, should be selected and have full charge of all 
materials pertaining to the exhibition from the first day 
until the hall is vacated. From the schedule and entries 
received he will know about how much space will be neces- 
sary for the various classes, and if wise will study the hall 
carefully, mapping out where each class and group shall 
be staged. It will also be his duty, unless left to a com- 
mittee, to provide suitable tables and vases and other 
requisites necessary. The vases should be of suitable 
size to accommodate the various classes, but should be uni- 
form in each specific class so that one exhibitor has no 
advantage over another. These should be filled and if 
possible placed ready for use, on or before the opening day 
to avoid confusion and delay. 



EXHIBITIONS 85 

Provide new features each year as the public are con- 
stantly looking for something novel. 

Pre-arrang-ement is an important factor to well con- 
ducted exhibitions. Details that can be arrano-ed prior to 
the opening- will save the manager much anxiety at the last 
moment, and whatever facilitates his work will assist the 
exhibitor and the task of judg-ing- will be less laborious. 

The Judge -In selecting a judg-e it should be a person 
having sufficient experience to be fully competent, and 
whose honor and integ-rity are above reproach. One to 
three judges are the number g-enerally used, sometimes in 
larg-e exhibitions where there are many classes to consider, 
a greater number are pressed into service and divided into 
sets, each set being allotted certain classes. When so 
arranged the awards are made with the least possible delay. 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America has adopted 
scales for judging which define the important qualifications 
to be considered in the various classes. They are as 
follows: 

i4— Scale of points for bush plants and standards, 
single specimen or any number up to six, in an exhibitioD 
where the class under consideration does not form the chief 
feature in the exhibition hall. 

Equality of size and form of plant 40 

Size of bloom 35 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 

B — Scale of points for bush plants, exhibits of more 
than six or for any number of specimen plants in an exhi- 
bition where the class under consideration forms the chief 
feature in the exhibition hall. 

Equality of size and form of plant 35 

Size of bloom 40 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 



86 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

0— Scale of points for plants grown to single stem and 
one bloom. A height of not over three feet is recommended 
for plants in this class, and pots not over six inches in 
diameter. 

Compact sturdy growth 40 

Foliage 30 

Size of bloom 30 

Total 100 

D— Scale of points for blooms for commercial purposes. 

Color___ 20 

Form - 15 

Fullness___ 10 

Stem 15 

Foliage 15 

Substance 15 

Size 10 

Total 100 

E — Scale for blooms for exhibition purposes. 

Color 10 

Stem 5 

Foliage 5 

Fullness 15 

Form 15 

Depth 15 

Size 35 

Total 100 

To apply these scales understandingly they should be 
carefully studied, determining the important factors and 
these fully considered to determine the exhibit possessing 
super-excellence. In scale D, there are seven qualifica- 
tions, viz: color, form, fullness, stem, foliage, substance 
and size. The color should be clear and positive whatever 
it may be. There is no form which could be considered 
perfect for all the varying types. Each possess specimens 
which are ideal as far as their particular class is concerned. 
Blooms having the greatest depth would have preference to 
those that are shallow, not only in quality of form but size. 



EXHIBITIONS 87 

Size is easily determined and can be decided upon without 
great effort. 

Fullness refers to the number of petals, hence those 
showing a disc or eye would be considered deficient in this 
respect. 

Substance deals with the texture of the petals and those 
which are soft and flabby should be secondary to those 
possessing a firm texture. 

The stems should be straight, of good length and stiff 
enough to properly support the bloom. The foliage should 
be luxuriant of good color and well up to the bloom. It is 
not always necessary to use scales in judging, as often the 
contrast of competitive exhibits are so pronounced that 
awards can be made with but little consideration. Where 
competition is close it is well to keep the important factors 
in mind, and if necessary use them. 

The Exhibitor — A practical exhibitor knows the im- 
portance of thoroug-hly understanding the rules and regu- 
lations as well as the schedule of the exhibition in which he 
is to compete, and g-enerally masters these prior to the date. 
In classes which specify certain colors such as white, pink, 
yellow, etc., it is advisable to select a variety that is most 
perfect in this respect, avoiding those that are shaded or 
marked with other colors. Never be confident cf suc- 
cess before your blooms are staged or at least until you 
have seen those of your competitors. 

Remember that judging to a certain degree is based up- 
on individual preference and judges, like others, do not all 
see the same. The decision maybe at a variance with your 
opinion, but whether right or wrong do not abuse the judge, 
or^criticise his actions too severely. If you are satisfied 
there is^something radically wrong and your exhibit has 
not been'l'given just consideration, enter a protest. This 
should be made in writing, setting forth the grounds of your 



88 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

grievance. Sign and hand to the secretary to lay the 
matter before the judge. 

Abide by the rules and regulations and never resort to 
trickery of any kind to gain a point. Such a course can- 
not succeed long at best, and it would be humiliating to 
have an exhibit disqualified by such a procedure. 



CHAPTER XVI 



TYPES, ETC. 

All illustrations in this chapter are one-fourth natural 

size. 

As very few sched- 
ules include classes for 
specific types, know- 
ledge pertaining to 
classification has not 
been fully promulgated 
and accepted as an im- 
portant adjunct to 
Chrysanthemum c u 1 - 
ture. And further, the 
hybridist has so crossed 
and re-crossed some of 
the section, that the 
identity is often rather 
obscure. 

Chrysan t he m u m s 
possessing certain 
characteristics of form 
and petalage are group- 
ed into classes, accord- 
ing to these peculiari- 
ties. 

The following are 
abridged descriptions 
of various types as 




FIG. 22. BEBE. 



adopted by the National Chrysauth^mum Society of Eng- 
land: 



92 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



Incurved — The disting-uishing characteristics are the 
globular form and regular outline of bloom. They 
should be as near a globe as possible, the florets broad, 
smooth, rounded at the tips, and regularly arranged. A 
hollow center or eye, or unevenness of outline is a serious 
defect. See Fig. 22. 

Japanese — No definition can be giv^en to include all the 
remarkable variations of form found in the Japanese 
chrysanthemums. The majority of the leading varieties 
are so distinctly marked, that nearly every one would re- 
quire a special definition. Without regarding the colors, 
the form of the florets and blooms furnish ample means of 
identification The florets are either flat, fluted, quilled 
or tubulated, of varying length, from short, straight, 
spreading florets, to long, drooping, twisted, or irregularly 
incurved ones. See Fig. 2.3. 

Japanese Incurved— 
No definition can be given 
to include all the remark- 
able varieties found in this 
type. The . fiorets are 
either flat, fluted, quilled 
or tabulated and of vary- 
ing length, from short, 
straight, and spreading, to 
long, drooping, twisted, 
or irregularly incurved. 
See Fig. 24. 

Hairy— ThQ chief pe- 
culiarity consists of a 
covering of short glandu- 
lar hairs on the reverse of 
the florets. This hair-like 
growth is shown to best ad- 
vantage where the florets 
are incurved. See Fig. 25, 







El 



FIG. 25. PLUMA, 



TYPES, ETC. 



W.] 



Re flexed— The, 
flowers should be 
perfectly circular in 
outline, without a 
trace of thinness in 
the center, hemis- 
pheroidal and with 
broad overlapping- 
florets. See ¥\g. 26. 

Large Anemones 
—The characteristics 
are larg-e size, high, 
neatly formed cen- 
ters and regularly 
arranged florets, one 
quilled and forming 
the center of disc, 
the other flat and 
horrizontally ar- 
ranged, forming 
the border or ray. 
See Fig. 27. 

Japanese Ane- 
mones— The^e are re- 
markable for theii 
large size and fantastic form. The disc is more or less 
regular in outline while the ray florets vary in length, 
breadth and arrangement. They may be narrow and twist- 
ed, broad and curled, or droop, forming a fringe in some 
instances. See Fig. 29. 

Pompons— Small blooms, dwarf growth and small 
leaves distinguish the true Pompons. The blooms are 
somewhat flat or nearly globular, averaging 1^ inches in 
diameter; neat, compact with short, flat, fluted tlorets. See 
Fig. 28. 




PIG 



Y A NOMA. 



94 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 




FIG. 27. ENTERPRISE. 



Pompon Anemones — These, 
in style of growth and size, are 
similar to the Pompons. They 
are really small flowered Anem- 
ones, having- a center or disc of 
quilled and more or less regular- 
ly arranged ray florets. See 
Fig. 30. 

^mg'/e— These may be any 
s ze and form but should not 
have more than a double row of 
ray florets and arranged suffi- 
c ently close together to form a 
dense fringe. This section is 
divided into two classes known 
as the large and small flowering. See Fig. 31. 

The National Chrysanthemum Society of England in 
their last official catalogue have added the following sec- 
tions: 

Early Floivering Varieties— (A) Large flowering Japan- 
ese, (B) Pompons. 

Spidery, Plumed, Feathery and Fan- 
tastic. See Fig. 32. 

Market and Decorative in three sec- 
tions, viz.: early, midseason and late. 

Indentifying—l^SbGh year flowers are 
sent to experts for identification, but very 
few understand how difficult it is to iden- 
tify them when received in poor condi- 
tion. Possibly the recipient has been 
looking at perfect flowers and the speci- 
mens received are entirely different, as to 
size, color and other qualifications. Fol- 
iage is often the surest means of identi- 
fication and in submitting samples do 




FIG 



BABY. 



TYPES, ETC. 95 

not fail to send a few leaves with each specimen. 

If shipped by express see instructions for packinj^ 
flowers, page 75. If sent by mail wrap each bloom with 
tissue paper and line the box with wax paper to prevent 
evaporation, and see that the box is of sufficient strength 
not to be crushed. 

Each bloom should be numbered and a record kept so 
they can be reported upon in like manner. 

The conditions under which Chrysanthemums are grown 
are so varied and 
the blooms them- 
selves so distinct 
that this task is 
very difficult and 
often fruitless. 

Selection. 

When viewing 
the exhibition ta- 
ble, notes are 
made of the best 
varieties to be 
grown the fol- 
lowing season. In 
making these 
selections it is 
wise to consider 
which are most 
suitable for the 
desired purpose. 
The two chief 
classes are com- 
mercial and exhi- 
bition — the for- 
mer should be fig 29. zoraida. 
subdivided as follows: first, where the product is packed 




96 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 




FIG. 30. ANTONIO US. 



and transported to the market 
and often repacked and reshipped 
before they reach the consumer; 
second, those produced for local 
consumption. 

In the first instance those 
possessing- pleasing- colors, such 
as white, pink and yellow, g-ood 
substance, incurved form and 
long-, strong- stems with clean 
foliage are the most desirable. 

Those g-rowing for retail 
trade can include many others 
for sake of variety. Some of the 
artistic formed sorts, like lor a, a few Anemones, and 
Pompons, will add materially to any form of arrangement 
from an artistic point of 
view. 

The exhibition varie- 
ties may also be divided 
as follows: first, those for 
collections which are 
staged singly, and second, 
those for vases of twelve 
or more to be staged collec- 
tively. 

Size is of most impor- 
tance for collections and 
as the stems usually do 
not exceed 16 inches in 
leng-th, are not so impor- 
tant provided they are 
strong enough to hold the 
flowers in an upright po- 
sition^ FIG. 31. SINGLE. 




98 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

For vases, size and colors, superlative in their respec- 
tive classes are the most important factors. Strong, sturdy 
stems, well clothed with foliage are most effective and 
should be taken into consideration. 

Many varieties suitable for the commercial grower are 
equally serviceable for exhibition. Each grower must con- 
sider his needs, if the demand is for medium rather than 
large blooms, it is best to inspect the varieties grown on a 
commercial place, or rely on the judg-ment of those who 
give this matter their constant attention. 

Commercially the foreign varieties have met with little 
favor, as will be seen by referring to any list recommended 
for this purpose. 

They generally require greater attention to produce 
marketable flowers, than those of American origin. In this 
country the great demand has been for good commercial 
sorts and the hybridizer has selected with this in view, 
while foreign seedlings possessing superior exhibition 
qualities are most popular. 

Do not discard those which do well under your method 
until experience has thoroughly demonstrated the merits of 
the newcomers. 

Novelties should be tested from year to year, retaining 
those which show advancement, bearing in mind the Amer- 
ican varieties are best for commercial growers and the im- 
portations should be carefully considered for exhibition. 



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flccupatc niankct Reports 

Hence the Best Jldveptising IDedium 



"Here is my dollar on renewal. The paper did not 
come yesterday, but I had had your notice. Glad to 
know there is ONE paper in the U. S. that will stop 
coming when the subscription expires."— Geo. W. Per- 
kins, Fulton, N. Y. 



Chrysanthemums and Carnations 

This came from Wallace (iora- 
erall, Superintendent of the 
famous " Wodenethe, " owned 
and maintained by Winthrop 
Sargent, Rsq., Fishkill-on-lJud- 
son, N. Y.: 

"For Chrysanthetmims we use Grape 
Dust with tlu> best results bv freely 
dustiiifr with it until the delicate blooms 
come, then we are a bit shy of it to pre- 
vent any staininjr of the petals, but dur- 
iny the j^'reen state, even in bad weath- 

_ er, there is no trace of funsrus and 

^'^'^'^ we keep free of the spot. I have recom- 

mended it to many g-ardeners, and so far for my ac(|uaiMtances have 
found it very valuable. In common with many (lardeners and Flor- 
ists, I have found it of frreat value in checkinfj the Rust on Carna- 
tions. It is not expensive to use. for by usiny in air bellows it diffu- 
ses itself everywhere, and is in ni3' judg-ment a valuable every day 
article. Grape Dust is sold b.v the Seedsmen of America." 

for Pamphlet, address B. HAMMOND, Fishkill-OD-Hudson, N. Y. 




PERENNIALS 

TEINDER AfND HARDY 

We fully realize that beauty is not confined to 
Chrysanthemums only, so in addition to our specialty 
we offer ONLY THE BEST of 

Carnations, Cannas, Dahlias, Geraniums, 
Other Popular Tender Plants 

In HARDY PERENNIALS we rival in Phlox, Paeo- 
nies and Iris. The balance consists of pre^=ent day 
favorites. Send for profusely illustrated catalo.i,'-ue. 

Mathan Smith & Son 

Adrian, Mich. 



NOV 14 1906 



FERTILENE 

Is Composed of Concentrated Chemicals for Making 
Liquid Plant Food 

A complete chemical fertilizer for chrysanthemums 
and other plants. For the past fifteen years we have 
used this preparation as a liquid fertilizer wholly, and 
doubtless our success is largely due to this fact. The 
many prizes awarded us during- these years are perman- 
ent monuments which impart more to its recommendation 
than we can imply by words. FERTILENE contains 
the same constituents incorporated in manure and this 
contains in proper 
phosphoric acid, 
conducive to plan 

Stable manun 
while FERTILEIS 
plant foods. 

The advantag 
ures are: 

It is clean. 

It has no offer 

It is soluble a 

It is immediat 

It is so highly 

It saves time i 



niia,ntit,ip« mt-vna-on 



^COPYDB TO 






xib .^-^ 

lib 

Su 

10 lbs 

Sufi! 

25 lbs 

Sufl 

50 lbs 

Sufl 
P 

NATHAN SIV 



RbrSr^^ongresT 




000 920 176 2 



Statesman Ptg. St Pub. Co. 
Marahall, Mich. 



